I think during my last five days in Prague I hit a bit of a tipping point: I think I am finally really starting to feel the burn of travel. I realized that the five days I spent in Sir Toby's Hostel (a superb one if you are ever in Prague) was the most time I had spent in one place since London more than a month before, with a lot of train travel, packed days, late nights and early mornings mixed in. More so than anywhere else, Europe is burning me out.
That's not to say that I didn't have a great time in Prague. I did. While it isn't as spectacular as I had hoped it would be (it is so touristy), it did have a lot of greatness (and fun hidden spots as well). Some of my highlights included one day getting up at 6 am so I could see and experience the main sights without roughly 462,000 people around me (definitely the way to see Prague), the Letna and Vitkov Hill areas that were more local and gave a lot of great views, winning a pub quiz on my last night (trivia champion of two continents!), and the "no umbrella" walking tour I took on the last day there, which primarily featured lots of Prague history and lesser known sections of the city that were pretty much amazing (it helped that the Czech man named Richard who ran the tour told me I was the funniest person he has ever had on the tour in 12 years - ego boost!).
In a lot of ways, it was like existing in a fairy tale land. Untouched by World War II and still capturing the gothic and baroque based architectural majesty it always has had, this is a pristine and exciting city.
But I think part of my drag comes from the fact that at this point I want my evenings to be me, my iPad and some good natured web surfing, and all of the people on the traveling trails are the party folk doing the Europe track looking for the best place to drink until 5 am until they can do the same the next day - and Prague is the hot place to do that due to cheap beer and ample amounts of smoke filled clubs (SO MUCH SMOKING IN PRAGUE!).
As a person who has a genuine interest in experiencing local culture and what a city is all about, it is very disconcerting to have conversations with people about the places I go and them respond to me with crooked faces and inquisitive looks until they ask "where is that at?"
In Prague. The place we have been for the past few days.
People act like I am some sort of wunderkind because I know how to find the train station or eat where the locals eat or I know the spot in the city that lets you see all of the bridges in succession. I can tell you that I am not anything of the sort. All I do is ask questions and retain knowledge. I'm not just pissing the night away like I am some sort of tub thumper.
That just happened.
So maybe I am not tired of traveling so much as I am tired of the people I am forced to travel with. Every once in a while you find like minded individuals and you get a lot of joy out of that, but at this point - with Berlin, Munich, Amsterdam and Brugge ahead of me - I am most excited to go to Heidelberg, Germany again (to see my friend Kerstin) and to go back to London (to spend time with the Sobolik's and feel like I am at a home again).
I have been trying fairly hard to always book hostels that emphasize words like "not a party hostel" or "chill" or "place for travelers," but you never really know what you are actually going to get. Here's hoping I find places that are actually like that, because I need a break from party people who think that drinking with strangers and acting completely different from the way you do at home (because you can!) constitutes traveling.
Music of the day: Sufjan Stevens - "Too Much" (Fun fact: I have picked up the habit of walking around and mouthing the words to this song while listening to it and dancing - Czech Republic likely thinks I am weird)
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Saturday, June 11, 2011
Hardcore Days & Softcore Nights
This trip has been filled with highlight after highlight. Even some of the things that have been small and seemingly innocuous have been instantly memorable - quick segue, recently in Florence's main train station, I saw a guy who had a Lupin shirt on. Lupin is a Japanese anime TV show, and it reminded me of a night spent in Kyoto, Japan with a guy from England, one from Sweden, and one from Poland, where we watched insane cartoons while the guy from Sweden translated and we all had beers. It was hysterical.
Anyways, back to the main story...there have been a lot of things that I will look back forever on with joy and happiness. Some of the best and most memorable times of my life.
Not that long ago I enjoyed what will quite likely be the best 24 hour period of my entire trip.
I was in Siena, Italy, a smaller city in Tuscany with a population of around 60,000 people that was touristy but not without a whole lot of charm thanks to the fact that most tourists only take day trips to it from Florence. That leaves the evenings and mornings as times with far quieter streets and more enjoyable times for those staying the night.
On my first evening there, I went to a Rick Steves recommended restaurant called Osteria Nonna Gina. Named after the former proprietor of the business, this little restaurant was rustic, authentic and very, very good. With that said, I was enjoying a romantic dining destination by myself. Highly problematic for some...no big deal for me at all.
I enjoyed my meal greatly, which started with bruschetta, followed with a gnocchi primi that was to die for, and closed with a secondi that was, well, I believe was, a roasted big leg. All delicious, especially the last item, a massive pork extravaganza that was packed with flavor and then some.
After I wrapped up, the waitress asked if I wanted an espresso or dessert, and I said no...but thanks. You know, being polite and all.
A little bit later, she showed back up and said she had a present for me...a bottle of homemade Amaretto and Grappa with a shot glass. The Grappa was not exactly welcome, as I am not entirely unconvinced that Grappa is paint thinner. However, the Amaretto was heavenly and reason enough for people to go to this restaurant on its own.
While Amaretto is not one of my favorite liquors in any way, shape or form, this was a marvelous drink that transcended its origins into some sort of super food. I was so enamored with it I had to interrupt the couple next to me who were enjoying their dinner without me interrupting them.
Next thing you know they were enjoying it, I was enjoying it, I was saddened to find out it was not mine to keep, but before I had left I had consumed half of a bottle and befriended the couple (who were from Texas) over booze, travel and music.
And so it begins.
Eventually, after departing the restaurant simultaneously (we closed the place down, both the Texans and I got there around opening at 7:30 and ended up leaving around 11:30), we agreed that we should keep the night going into infinity. So we headed to the grand piazza in the center of this wondrous city - Il Campo.
Once there, we consumed wine, the world's greatest mojitos (no kidding), and quickly befriended a slew of Italian university students who were near us in the piazza. They were fire twirlers, musicians and generally entertaining people (our IBFF - Italian Best Friend Forever - was a charming guy who wanted to be a comedian and thinks Bill Hicks is a god), and they welcomed us in with open arms. The three of us, Alyssa, Ben (the artists previously known as the Texans) and myself, got to enjoy something many travelers do not get - complete and utter assimilation into a local group.
It was wonderful, and by the time the night was closing with all three of our faces adorned with Italian flags at 4 in the morning, we were giddy and satisfied with our experience.
The next morning was supposed to start early so I could be on a Vespa by 9:30 am, but free Amaretto had different ideas. Instead, I was an hour late and only had 8 hours on the Vespa from Perozzi, the delightful rental company in Siena. The woman who rented me the bike was highly entertaining and very sweet, taking photos of me as she insisted I looked like "cheeps" with my aviator sunglasses (aka CHIPs, the 80's TV show starring an aviator wearing Erik Estrada), and was the perfect way to start my trip.
This was my lifelong Italian dream, and by the time I was 200 feet from the rental joint my mind was throwing down touchdown dances internally.
I spent the day checking out castles, roaming the Chianti region of Tuscany, accidentally going to awesome markets (and enjoying delectable pork products in the process), witnessing (but not enjoying) almost comically cheap wine tastings (don't drink and drive Vespas people!), dodging lightning (the crazy storm I went through briefly was honestly wildly entertaining in its panic inducing ways), and all in all having one of the best days ever.
I did ridiculous things while on the Vespa. I had occasional reprises of my Thai moped experience by belting out songs as I traveled (The Smiths' "Please, Please, Please" was a favorite). I added a new wrinkle, as I would yell in an Italian accent every sign I went past (which ranged from town names like "Castlellini" to signs that just showed pandas on it). It was a blast. I entertained myself thoroughly.
By the time I returned, I was a walking smile, grinning like a complete fool for the rest of my lazy and cheap pizza al taglio filled evening. Because why not? In the last 24 hours I had a legendary night out on the town in one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy AND accomplished a life dream.
That's not exactly chopped liver.
Music of the day: New Beirut! "East Harlem" single is out! So good!
Anyways, back to the main story...there have been a lot of things that I will look back forever on with joy and happiness. Some of the best and most memorable times of my life.
Not that long ago I enjoyed what will quite likely be the best 24 hour period of my entire trip.
I was in Siena, Italy, a smaller city in Tuscany with a population of around 60,000 people that was touristy but not without a whole lot of charm thanks to the fact that most tourists only take day trips to it from Florence. That leaves the evenings and mornings as times with far quieter streets and more enjoyable times for those staying the night.
On my first evening there, I went to a Rick Steves recommended restaurant called Osteria Nonna Gina. Named after the former proprietor of the business, this little restaurant was rustic, authentic and very, very good. With that said, I was enjoying a romantic dining destination by myself. Highly problematic for some...no big deal for me at all.
I enjoyed my meal greatly, which started with bruschetta, followed with a gnocchi primi that was to die for, and closed with a secondi that was, well, I believe was, a roasted big leg. All delicious, especially the last item, a massive pork extravaganza that was packed with flavor and then some.
After I wrapped up, the waitress asked if I wanted an espresso or dessert, and I said no...but thanks. You know, being polite and all.
A little bit later, she showed back up and said she had a present for me...a bottle of homemade Amaretto and Grappa with a shot glass. The Grappa was not exactly welcome, as I am not entirely unconvinced that Grappa is paint thinner. However, the Amaretto was heavenly and reason enough for people to go to this restaurant on its own.
While Amaretto is not one of my favorite liquors in any way, shape or form, this was a marvelous drink that transcended its origins into some sort of super food. I was so enamored with it I had to interrupt the couple next to me who were enjoying their dinner without me interrupting them.
Next thing you know they were enjoying it, I was enjoying it, I was saddened to find out it was not mine to keep, but before I had left I had consumed half of a bottle and befriended the couple (who were from Texas) over booze, travel and music.
And so it begins.
Eventually, after departing the restaurant simultaneously (we closed the place down, both the Texans and I got there around opening at 7:30 and ended up leaving around 11:30), we agreed that we should keep the night going into infinity. So we headed to the grand piazza in the center of this wondrous city - Il Campo.
Once there, we consumed wine, the world's greatest mojitos (no kidding), and quickly befriended a slew of Italian university students who were near us in the piazza. They were fire twirlers, musicians and generally entertaining people (our IBFF - Italian Best Friend Forever - was a charming guy who wanted to be a comedian and thinks Bill Hicks is a god), and they welcomed us in with open arms. The three of us, Alyssa, Ben (the artists previously known as the Texans) and myself, got to enjoy something many travelers do not get - complete and utter assimilation into a local group.
It was wonderful, and by the time the night was closing with all three of our faces adorned with Italian flags at 4 in the morning, we were giddy and satisfied with our experience.
The next morning was supposed to start early so I could be on a Vespa by 9:30 am, but free Amaretto had different ideas. Instead, I was an hour late and only had 8 hours on the Vespa from Perozzi, the delightful rental company in Siena. The woman who rented me the bike was highly entertaining and very sweet, taking photos of me as she insisted I looked like "cheeps" with my aviator sunglasses (aka CHIPs, the 80's TV show starring an aviator wearing Erik Estrada), and was the perfect way to start my trip.
This was my lifelong Italian dream, and by the time I was 200 feet from the rental joint my mind was throwing down touchdown dances internally.
I spent the day checking out castles, roaming the Chianti region of Tuscany, accidentally going to awesome markets (and enjoying delectable pork products in the process), witnessing (but not enjoying) almost comically cheap wine tastings (don't drink and drive Vespas people!), dodging lightning (the crazy storm I went through briefly was honestly wildly entertaining in its panic inducing ways), and all in all having one of the best days ever.
I did ridiculous things while on the Vespa. I had occasional reprises of my Thai moped experience by belting out songs as I traveled (The Smiths' "Please, Please, Please" was a favorite). I added a new wrinkle, as I would yell in an Italian accent every sign I went past (which ranged from town names like "Castlellini" to signs that just showed pandas on it). It was a blast. I entertained myself thoroughly.
By the time I returned, I was a walking smile, grinning like a complete fool for the rest of my lazy and cheap pizza al taglio filled evening. Because why not? In the last 24 hours I had a legendary night out on the town in one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy AND accomplished a life dream.
That's not exactly chopped liver.
Music of the day: New Beirut! "East Harlem" single is out! So good!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Living the Dream
One of the major reasons why I went to Italy in 2009 for me personally wasn't to see the Grand Canal, nor the Coliseum, nor the Statue of David, or anything else that people really go to Italy for. Really, it wasn't even to eat, which is a rarity for me (I like not love Italian food).
It was to drive a Vespa in Italy.
I have no idea why but I have always wanted to do that. It's an odd and small thing to desire, but there is something just so attractive about the concept.
Yet I never did it. I claimed that the reason why was it was just too dangerous, but I think it was more that I was a little scared of negotiating the awful and crazy streets of Rome using a device I had never used previously.
In my trip so far though, I have had a couple chances to drive a moped and I've built up confidence in my skills, which is great even if it is completely irrational confidence. This is good because it is a quality skill to have (you never know when you'll need to know how to drive a moped!) but also because I am headed back to Italy specifically for the purpose of driving a Vespa through wine country in Tuscany.
Just let that sink in for a second...I am accomplishing a life goal AND doing something ridiculously awesome even without personal opinions worked in at the same time. Doubly fantastic, if I do say so myself.
I'll be staying in Siena, a lovely little town in the heart of Tuscany about an hour and forty five minutes by train from Florence, for two nights and three days explicitly so I can adventure around with my trusty motored steed. Sure, I'll likely eat some incredible country Italian food and have some superb wine at the same time, but when you get down to it I am there for the experience of coasting through the rolling hills of wine country, belting out the three songs I know that seem Italian in my mind as I drive around.
I can't think of a better way to spend a few days.
Music of the day: Dean Martin - That's Amore (is there anything more cliche Italian in music from an American perspective?)
It was to drive a Vespa in Italy.
I have no idea why but I have always wanted to do that. It's an odd and small thing to desire, but there is something just so attractive about the concept.
Yet I never did it. I claimed that the reason why was it was just too dangerous, but I think it was more that I was a little scared of negotiating the awful and crazy streets of Rome using a device I had never used previously.
In my trip so far though, I have had a couple chances to drive a moped and I've built up confidence in my skills, which is great even if it is completely irrational confidence. This is good because it is a quality skill to have (you never know when you'll need to know how to drive a moped!) but also because I am headed back to Italy specifically for the purpose of driving a Vespa through wine country in Tuscany.
Just let that sink in for a second...I am accomplishing a life goal AND doing something ridiculously awesome even without personal opinions worked in at the same time. Doubly fantastic, if I do say so myself.
I'll be staying in Siena, a lovely little town in the heart of Tuscany about an hour and forty five minutes by train from Florence, for two nights and three days explicitly so I can adventure around with my trusty motored steed. Sure, I'll likely eat some incredible country Italian food and have some superb wine at the same time, but when you get down to it I am there for the experience of coasting through the rolling hills of wine country, belting out the three songs I know that seem Italian in my mind as I drive around.
I can't think of a better way to spend a few days.
Music of the day: Dean Martin - That's Amore (is there anything more cliche Italian in music from an American perspective?)
Wednesday, June 1, 2011
No Matter Where You Go...There You Are
These days it feels like I am in perpetual motion. Always moving forward to the next place, the next sight, the next city, the next train. In the past 24 hours I have been on five trains in four countries, attempting to get to somewhere to call home for a day or two. That next place is Interlaken, Switzerland, until it isn't.
It's an interesting thing to always be somewhere new or to be traveling from place to place. It's like I am constantly on the first day of school, meeting people on their vacation in the best possible mood at all times. Who isn't happy during vacation? It leads to a lot of quickly developed friendships and/or conversations, and, at "best," an add on Facebook.
That leads me to the one thing that I've started to miss while traveling: roots. When you're always moving, it is pretty difficult to cultivate lasting connections. Granted, I could easily change this for myself by sticking around somewhere for a little more than a day or two at a time, but there is so much to do and so little time! It's a choice I've made, and there is no reason I cannot go to some of my favorite places later and develop those roots.
But it is kind of interesting...when I look back to the places I liked the most (Wanaka, Melbourne, Hiroshima, Chiang Mai, London, Paris, Heidelberg, Barcelona) they were all (besides Hiroshima) marked by extended stints in one place. The only reason why I don't change my itinerary and simply stick it out at one or two locations for my remaining time is for one simple reason: I know if I did that the opposite would be true.
I would be ten days into my stay in Prague, enjoying a coffee and the mighty fine architecture they have but thinking "man, it sure would have been cool if I made it to Budapest." You always want what you don't have...isn't that true?
That said, in my current final version of my remaining itinerary, I think I get the best of both worlds. A ton of places in there, but with multi-day stints in Interlaken, Siena (Italy), Zagreb (Croatia), Budapest (Hungary), Prague, Berlin, Amsterdam, and Bruges/Brugge (Belgium). Sure, it would be cool to go to Greece or Turkey or Poland (or rather non former concentration camp parts of Poland), but this allows me the best of both worlds: elongated stays while also visiting a bunch of places that are awesome.
Because really, the fact that I stayed in those favorite places for multiple days isn't the reason why they are favorites. I stayed there multiple days because they were awesome and I didn't want to leave them. If these places coming up are crap, I'll leave, simple as that.
Roots be damned.
Music of the day: Kay Kay and His Weathered Underground - Self Titled Debut
It's an interesting thing to always be somewhere new or to be traveling from place to place. It's like I am constantly on the first day of school, meeting people on their vacation in the best possible mood at all times. Who isn't happy during vacation? It leads to a lot of quickly developed friendships and/or conversations, and, at "best," an add on Facebook.
That leads me to the one thing that I've started to miss while traveling: roots. When you're always moving, it is pretty difficult to cultivate lasting connections. Granted, I could easily change this for myself by sticking around somewhere for a little more than a day or two at a time, but there is so much to do and so little time! It's a choice I've made, and there is no reason I cannot go to some of my favorite places later and develop those roots.
But it is kind of interesting...when I look back to the places I liked the most (Wanaka, Melbourne, Hiroshima, Chiang Mai, London, Paris, Heidelberg, Barcelona) they were all (besides Hiroshima) marked by extended stints in one place. The only reason why I don't change my itinerary and simply stick it out at one or two locations for my remaining time is for one simple reason: I know if I did that the opposite would be true.
I would be ten days into my stay in Prague, enjoying a coffee and the mighty fine architecture they have but thinking "man, it sure would have been cool if I made it to Budapest." You always want what you don't have...isn't that true?
That said, in my current final version of my remaining itinerary, I think I get the best of both worlds. A ton of places in there, but with multi-day stints in Interlaken, Siena (Italy), Zagreb (Croatia), Budapest (Hungary), Prague, Berlin, Amsterdam, and Bruges/Brugge (Belgium). Sure, it would be cool to go to Greece or Turkey or Poland (or rather non former concentration camp parts of Poland), but this allows me the best of both worlds: elongated stays while also visiting a bunch of places that are awesome.
Because really, the fact that I stayed in those favorite places for multiple days isn't the reason why they are favorites. I stayed there multiple days because they were awesome and I didn't want to leave them. If these places coming up are crap, I'll leave, simple as that.
Roots be damned.
Music of the day: Kay Kay and His Weathered Underground - Self Titled Debut
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Barcelona Free For All
The past week has been a complete blur (or maybe more than a week depending on when I post this), and that is thanks to trying to take in all of Barcelona AND attending Primavera Sound music festival over a five day period (plus negotiating Madrid on zero rest as well as figuring out the rest of my trip...but that is another story for another time).
But it was completely worth it - Barcelona was easily one of the best places I have ever been, and Primavera Sound was an insanely good time.
First off, Barcelona was a beautiful and vibrant city, especially thanks to one man - Gaudi. This architect started the Modernism movement and his works are omnipresent in Barcelona. I loved them all, but in particular I enjoyed Parc Guell (where my Gaudi and Primavera experiences intertwined as I met Wayne Coyne - lead singer of The Flaming Lips - here), a majestic and dreamlike landscape in the Eixample section of the city.
Existing in opposition to the heavenly layout of Parc Guell was the massive and oddly scary Sagrada Familia. This incredibly detailed church was the crown jewel of Gaudi's work, yet in the 43 years before his death (he started it in 1883) he worked on it he never completed it. Since then, work has continued to finish it. I spoke to a woman from England who had been there 30 years previous and she said it barely even looked the same as when she had come in the past. Whatever was happening with it, it seemed as if it rose from some circle of hell to take form on Earth...but in a way that is insanely awesome. I thought it was one of the best and certainly the most unique church I have ever seen.
The rest of his work was great, as was the remainder of my experience. It was highlighted by an unfathomably cool restaurant named La Cerverceria Catalan that excelled in making food that made me say "WOW!" I went there three times thanks to the recommendation of my one-time camping mate Lucy Raskin (of the Megatron Bieber family), and enjoyed it more with each successive venture. I tried nothing more than once, but everything was incredible, from the liver served on artichoke with some fancy sauce (LIVER!) to the Oeufs "Cabreaos" (fried potato strings with two fried eggs on top and a spicy tomato sauce) to the just absurdly good calamari - this place redefined tapas in my mind. All in all, in three days I had 9 dishes, two cappucinos, two beers (one was bought for me!) and a lot of good conversations with the diners next to me (who were from Spain, the UK and San Francisco respectively). This place was a blast with great service, amazing food and very reasonable prices. If you are ever in Barcelona, I highly recommend it.
Now, as for Primavera Sound, this bad boy was a bit of a mess at times (I am uncertain as to how well this thing is run), but the experience was an awesome one that found me making my way back to my bed past sun up multiple times, making a bunch of friends in a hurry (from Ireland, Dubai, Canada and England in particular), and enjoying some varied performances.
I say varied because the music itself was pretty up and down. There was the predictably amazing performance (The Flaming Lips). There was the surprisingly incredible one (James Blake - so much soul!). There was the big disappointment (Animal Collective - three songs anyone knew and no encore in an hour and ten minutes). There was a lot of good (Of Montreal, Big Boi, Explosions in the Sky, DJ Shadow, The Walkmen, tUnE-yArDs, Matthew Dear, Caribou, Interpol, Belle & Sebastian) and some just eh performances (The National - third time I have seen them, essentially the same set every time). It was a ton of fun and a bit hard to get used to thanks to the crazy schedule - Girl Talk went on at 5 am! - but I recommend it as a festival overall. Besides Animal Collective, it seems as if this festival pushes bands to give it their all, and that is an awesome, awesome thing if you are a regular festival goer.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of my whole time in Barcelona was the experience of watching the Champions League final between Manchester United and Barcelona live at the festival. The Llevant stage was converted into a place for the slew of Barcelona fans (and the small contingent of Man U fans who would identify themselves) to watch, and myself and my Saturday festival mates Josh and John (from Bristol - THE HOME OF DUBSTEP!) watched the whole thing, soaking in the celebration as Barca won 3 to 1. It was a joyous thing, and it was best experienced there (rather than in the main place for it - Placa de Catalunya - which ended up having visitors forced to stay until 5:30 am by Barcelona police).
Five days of pure awesome in Barcelona, filled with surprise and just amazing experiences right and left. While I wanted to continue on my Spanish adventure and the start of it in Madrid was nice enough, it felt right to head out and head east now. Barcelona was going to top everything anyways, so might as well get my Switzerland on sooner rather than later (did I mention I changed my itinerary again?).
Music of the day: The Flaming Lips - Do You Realize?
But it was completely worth it - Barcelona was easily one of the best places I have ever been, and Primavera Sound was an insanely good time.
First off, Barcelona was a beautiful and vibrant city, especially thanks to one man - Gaudi. This architect started the Modernism movement and his works are omnipresent in Barcelona. I loved them all, but in particular I enjoyed Parc Guell (where my Gaudi and Primavera experiences intertwined as I met Wayne Coyne - lead singer of The Flaming Lips - here), a majestic and dreamlike landscape in the Eixample section of the city.
Existing in opposition to the heavenly layout of Parc Guell was the massive and oddly scary Sagrada Familia. This incredibly detailed church was the crown jewel of Gaudi's work, yet in the 43 years before his death (he started it in 1883) he worked on it he never completed it. Since then, work has continued to finish it. I spoke to a woman from England who had been there 30 years previous and she said it barely even looked the same as when she had come in the past. Whatever was happening with it, it seemed as if it rose from some circle of hell to take form on Earth...but in a way that is insanely awesome. I thought it was one of the best and certainly the most unique church I have ever seen.
The rest of his work was great, as was the remainder of my experience. It was highlighted by an unfathomably cool restaurant named La Cerverceria Catalan that excelled in making food that made me say "WOW!" I went there three times thanks to the recommendation of my one-time camping mate Lucy Raskin (of the Megatron Bieber family), and enjoyed it more with each successive venture. I tried nothing more than once, but everything was incredible, from the liver served on artichoke with some fancy sauce (LIVER!) to the Oeufs "Cabreaos" (fried potato strings with two fried eggs on top and a spicy tomato sauce) to the just absurdly good calamari - this place redefined tapas in my mind. All in all, in three days I had 9 dishes, two cappucinos, two beers (one was bought for me!) and a lot of good conversations with the diners next to me (who were from Spain, the UK and San Francisco respectively). This place was a blast with great service, amazing food and very reasonable prices. If you are ever in Barcelona, I highly recommend it.
Now, as for Primavera Sound, this bad boy was a bit of a mess at times (I am uncertain as to how well this thing is run), but the experience was an awesome one that found me making my way back to my bed past sun up multiple times, making a bunch of friends in a hurry (from Ireland, Dubai, Canada and England in particular), and enjoying some varied performances.
I say varied because the music itself was pretty up and down. There was the predictably amazing performance (The Flaming Lips). There was the surprisingly incredible one (James Blake - so much soul!). There was the big disappointment (Animal Collective - three songs anyone knew and no encore in an hour and ten minutes). There was a lot of good (Of Montreal, Big Boi, Explosions in the Sky, DJ Shadow, The Walkmen, tUnE-yArDs, Matthew Dear, Caribou, Interpol, Belle & Sebastian) and some just eh performances (The National - third time I have seen them, essentially the same set every time). It was a ton of fun and a bit hard to get used to thanks to the crazy schedule - Girl Talk went on at 5 am! - but I recommend it as a festival overall. Besides Animal Collective, it seems as if this festival pushes bands to give it their all, and that is an awesome, awesome thing if you are a regular festival goer.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of my whole time in Barcelona was the experience of watching the Champions League final between Manchester United and Barcelona live at the festival. The Llevant stage was converted into a place for the slew of Barcelona fans (and the small contingent of Man U fans who would identify themselves) to watch, and myself and my Saturday festival mates Josh and John (from Bristol - THE HOME OF DUBSTEP!) watched the whole thing, soaking in the celebration as Barca won 3 to 1. It was a joyous thing, and it was best experienced there (rather than in the main place for it - Placa de Catalunya - which ended up having visitors forced to stay until 5:30 am by Barcelona police).
Five days of pure awesome in Barcelona, filled with surprise and just amazing experiences right and left. While I wanted to continue on my Spanish adventure and the start of it in Madrid was nice enough, it felt right to head out and head east now. Barcelona was going to top everything anyways, so might as well get my Switzerland on sooner rather than later (did I mention I changed my itinerary again?).
Music of the day: The Flaming Lips - Do You Realize?
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Where We're Going, We Don't Need Roads...Just Train Tracks
Some of you may be wondering where I am headed while in the European portion of my trip. To you I have this - I have been wondering the same thing! Oddly enough, I had no plans save a concert in late May in Barcelona and a concert in London at the end of June. Past that, I've got nothin'. Just a wing and a prayer...and a Eurail pass (that part is more important).
Well, I thought it out a bit now (given the amount of time I have had to think thanks to many, many train rides), so may I present the prospective itinerary of the Europeean portion of my trip. This is subject to much change and it is only what I have brewed up quickly in my head over the past few days.
- Barcelona for the next five days
- Granada
- Cadiz
- Madrid
- Lisbon
- Bilbao (hopefully just for the day to see the Guggenheim Museum and then a night train towards Italy)
- A few days in Tuscany with a moped
- Croatia (Dalmatian Coast!)
- Istanbul
- Train from Istanbul to Vienna to recreate the Before Sunset ride
- Prague
- Poland specifically for Auschwitz (what can I say, I like WWII and I am weird and morbid)
- Bavaria in Germany specifically for the Eagle's Nest (more WWII), Black Forest, and seeing my friend Katharina again
- Berlin
- Hamburg (guided tour of a area known for tons of prostitutes? yes please!)
- Back to Heidelberg (Kerstin!)
- Amsterdam
- Brugge/Bruges/Whatever the place Colin Farrell couldn't stand in Belgium
- Back to Paris for a day trip to Nantes
- Back to London for a concert
- Scotland/Ireland to close the trip
That may be way too much, to be perfectly honest. I am a freakishly efficient traveler, but with train travel mixed in it might be too much to work in. With that said, I think I can swing it but may end up cutting out part of my Spain section. I do not know a ton in Spain, and what I do know is that I really think the Guggenheim in Bilbao is spectacular and I know I cannot miss anything in Barcelona. The rest is passable in my mind.
If I am going to add anywhere, it will likely be Capri down in Southern Italy, but that may be problematic - it is pretty far south so it will take me a couple days off my path and it will take me back to Rome which, to be honest, I have no interest in doing. So that is likely out, no matter how pretty it looks.
So there you have it! Feel free to give me any feedback or suggestions on places I should go, even if you haven't been there yourself and just think they look really pretty. I am open to anything and would love to hear from you all.
Music of the day: Back to the Future Theme
Well, I thought it out a bit now (given the amount of time I have had to think thanks to many, many train rides), so may I present the prospective itinerary of the Europeean portion of my trip. This is subject to much change and it is only what I have brewed up quickly in my head over the past few days.
- Barcelona for the next five days
- Granada
- Cadiz
- Madrid
- Lisbon
- Bilbao (hopefully just for the day to see the Guggenheim Museum and then a night train towards Italy)
- A few days in Tuscany with a moped
- Croatia (Dalmatian Coast!)
- Istanbul
- Train from Istanbul to Vienna to recreate the Before Sunset ride
- Prague
- Poland specifically for Auschwitz (what can I say, I like WWII and I am weird and morbid)
- Bavaria in Germany specifically for the Eagle's Nest (more WWII), Black Forest, and seeing my friend Katharina again
- Berlin
- Hamburg (guided tour of a area known for tons of prostitutes? yes please!)
- Back to Heidelberg (Kerstin!)
- Amsterdam
- Brugge/Bruges/Whatever the place Colin Farrell couldn't stand in Belgium
- Back to Paris for a day trip to Nantes
- Back to London for a concert
- Scotland/Ireland to close the trip
That may be way too much, to be perfectly honest. I am a freakishly efficient traveler, but with train travel mixed in it might be too much to work in. With that said, I think I can swing it but may end up cutting out part of my Spain section. I do not know a ton in Spain, and what I do know is that I really think the Guggenheim in Bilbao is spectacular and I know I cannot miss anything in Barcelona. The rest is passable in my mind.
If I am going to add anywhere, it will likely be Capri down in Southern Italy, but that may be problematic - it is pretty far south so it will take me a couple days off my path and it will take me back to Rome which, to be honest, I have no interest in doing. So that is likely out, no matter how pretty it looks.
So there you have it! Feel free to give me any feedback or suggestions on places I should go, even if you haven't been there yourself and just think they look really pretty. I am open to anything and would love to hear from you all.
Music of the day: Back to the Future Theme
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Little Thoughts
I am on a train going from Montpellier, France to Figueras, Spain, and since I have gotten to Europe it has been a bit of a whirlwind tour. Seven days in London, 2 in Paris, 3 in Heidelberg, Germany, 2 in Nice (with jaunts to Monaco and Cannes in there as well), and 1 in Marseille later and I have covered four countries and am on my way to a fifth. Europe is kind of the anti-Australia - no matter where you go...there you are (to quote Confucius and, perhaps more importantly, Buckaroo Banzai).
I don't have any epic posts for you right now (sorry!), but I do have a bunch of little thoughts associated with my journey so far. Take what you get blog readers!
- Writing a blog while traveling, even with tons of time on trains, is pretty difficult. When you can't think of something to write, you can go a while without posting and that leads to a boring blog, and when you do think of something it is quite often when you have the least opportunity. Sorry everyone!
- The things you take for granted are quite often the most amazing thing to others. Three examples:
1) I posted this on Facebook, but people in Japan reacted to me saying I was from Alaska like I would if I found out what one of my best friends was actually from the moon.
2) In London near Buckingham Palace, I saw a huge amount of people in a circle with their cameras out. Given the crowd, I expected a live unicorn or at the very least a small dinosaur. I pushed to the front and it was...a squirrel.
3) In Marseille, I was walking up by a huge chateau with a view overlooking the Mediterranean. There was a ferry leaving the port and all of the people near me were shocked and awed by the size of it. One person was actually covering their mouth. I was entertained.
- Europe during the summer, even if it isn't the real summer, is more expensive to stay at than even one month previous was when I came in 2009.
- The Cannes Film Festival is way less glamorous and exciting when you don't have a press pass and are actually there. It is like a less interesting comic convention with more fashionable and famous people. That may be the understatement of the century - comic fans are not fashionable.
- Monaco is great, but in particular, the Monte Carlo Casino is so freakishly amazing it will likely line up as being one of the best times of my trip. The building itself is gorgeous, and I personally contributed 30 Euro to it via gambling but it was so incredibly worth it. I have to say - I was up 10 Euro at one point. Which is when I should have quit.
- Europeans love bakeries. In France and Germany, you can't go past three buildings without going past somewhere that has absurdly delicious looking baked goods.
- Booking ahead on hostels REALLY pays off, and not booking ahead does not. The hostel I stayed in one night in Paris as I transitioned between Heidelberg and Nice was easily the worst hostel I have ever stayed at. Peace and Love Hostel should die!
- With that said, the place I stayed in Marseille (Vertigo Vieux Port) I booked the day before I went and it was remarkably great. Top staff, free breakfast, beautiful art everywhere, interesting architecture, great location, free and fast wifi and internet...major fan of this place.
- Paris is just as wonderful as I remembered. Best city ever, man.
- Even when you get to major cities like London, small town things can happen. I was in a comic shop doing some reading (what can I say, I'm an addict) when I ran into comic writer Nick Spencer and his girlfriend. I interviewed him at the beginning of my trip at Emerald City ComiCon...in Seattle. Fun!
- For two days, I was lonely. It was my friends Kerstin and Katharina's fault, as I hung out with them in Heidelberg and had an amazing time, and then left them and was sad to be by myself again. But I got over it because Marseille was super nice AND my hostel was filled with cool people.
- Having ample time to read random things and meeting random people allows me to become well versed in random subjects. For example, last night I had an extensive conversation with a guy from Montreal about the state of Canadian politics and I was able to hold my own. It was riveting (probably the only person to use that word about Canadian politics).
- Most Americans I meet act like I am a wild and impressive person because I have been so many places and have been traveling as long as I have been. I enjoy this.
- Missing the NBA Playoffs really sucks, but it has led me to discover my new favorite sports website - The Basketball Jones. I have actually had crazy laughing fits at 1 am in hostels because of this damn site, leading most everyone in the room I am in to think I am nuts. SCIENCE!
- Japanese food is crazy healthy. European food...not so much. I think I am gaining weight again even with walking at least 15 miles a day, and I blame the fact that I am eating roughly 13 loaves of bread a day.
- I was genuinely saddened by losing my towel today. I bought it for 5 New Zealand dollars in a K-Mart in Christchurch, and now I am lost without it. Awkward towel with sea creatures on it, you may have been mediocre at your central task of drying me, but you did it with such cheapness that you were impossible not to love. I miss you!
- Sometimes I start missing home, and then I realize something like "I am on a train between France and Spain right now instead of at work. This is awesome!" Yeah, that makes it easier to handle.
- Facebook is a great way to keep up with people while I am gone, but I have noticed people using Facebook as a forum to share grand plans that they have that they will likely not follow through on. As a person currently following through on a grand plan, I highly suggest doing so. Why not? After all, we only live once.
- Europe may not be as interesting as Asia or as naturally beautiful as Oceania, but man, this place is just filled to the brim with awesome and historical things, is incredibly easy to get around, and is straight up fantastic.
That's it. It turned into an epic post anyways because of the sheer volume of thoughts, but that is probably pretty unsurprising to all of you.
One other thing I'd like to add is that if you want a postcard, let me know in the comments (along with your mailing address). Also, if you want it from a specific place, let me know that too.
Music of the day: Girl Talk - Feed the Animals
I don't have any epic posts for you right now (sorry!), but I do have a bunch of little thoughts associated with my journey so far. Take what you get blog readers!
- Writing a blog while traveling, even with tons of time on trains, is pretty difficult. When you can't think of something to write, you can go a while without posting and that leads to a boring blog, and when you do think of something it is quite often when you have the least opportunity. Sorry everyone!
- The things you take for granted are quite often the most amazing thing to others. Three examples:
1) I posted this on Facebook, but people in Japan reacted to me saying I was from Alaska like I would if I found out what one of my best friends was actually from the moon.
2) In London near Buckingham Palace, I saw a huge amount of people in a circle with their cameras out. Given the crowd, I expected a live unicorn or at the very least a small dinosaur. I pushed to the front and it was...a squirrel.
3) In Marseille, I was walking up by a huge chateau with a view overlooking the Mediterranean. There was a ferry leaving the port and all of the people near me were shocked and awed by the size of it. One person was actually covering their mouth. I was entertained.
- Europe during the summer, even if it isn't the real summer, is more expensive to stay at than even one month previous was when I came in 2009.
- The Cannes Film Festival is way less glamorous and exciting when you don't have a press pass and are actually there. It is like a less interesting comic convention with more fashionable and famous people. That may be the understatement of the century - comic fans are not fashionable.
- Monaco is great, but in particular, the Monte Carlo Casino is so freakishly amazing it will likely line up as being one of the best times of my trip. The building itself is gorgeous, and I personally contributed 30 Euro to it via gambling but it was so incredibly worth it. I have to say - I was up 10 Euro at one point. Which is when I should have quit.
- Europeans love bakeries. In France and Germany, you can't go past three buildings without going past somewhere that has absurdly delicious looking baked goods.
- Booking ahead on hostels REALLY pays off, and not booking ahead does not. The hostel I stayed in one night in Paris as I transitioned between Heidelberg and Nice was easily the worst hostel I have ever stayed at. Peace and Love Hostel should die!
- With that said, the place I stayed in Marseille (Vertigo Vieux Port) I booked the day before I went and it was remarkably great. Top staff, free breakfast, beautiful art everywhere, interesting architecture, great location, free and fast wifi and internet...major fan of this place.
- Paris is just as wonderful as I remembered. Best city ever, man.
- Even when you get to major cities like London, small town things can happen. I was in a comic shop doing some reading (what can I say, I'm an addict) when I ran into comic writer Nick Spencer and his girlfriend. I interviewed him at the beginning of my trip at Emerald City ComiCon...in Seattle. Fun!
- For two days, I was lonely. It was my friends Kerstin and Katharina's fault, as I hung out with them in Heidelberg and had an amazing time, and then left them and was sad to be by myself again. But I got over it because Marseille was super nice AND my hostel was filled with cool people.
- Having ample time to read random things and meeting random people allows me to become well versed in random subjects. For example, last night I had an extensive conversation with a guy from Montreal about the state of Canadian politics and I was able to hold my own. It was riveting (probably the only person to use that word about Canadian politics).
- Most Americans I meet act like I am a wild and impressive person because I have been so many places and have been traveling as long as I have been. I enjoy this.
- Missing the NBA Playoffs really sucks, but it has led me to discover my new favorite sports website - The Basketball Jones. I have actually had crazy laughing fits at 1 am in hostels because of this damn site, leading most everyone in the room I am in to think I am nuts. SCIENCE!
- Japanese food is crazy healthy. European food...not so much. I think I am gaining weight again even with walking at least 15 miles a day, and I blame the fact that I am eating roughly 13 loaves of bread a day.
- I was genuinely saddened by losing my towel today. I bought it for 5 New Zealand dollars in a K-Mart in Christchurch, and now I am lost without it. Awkward towel with sea creatures on it, you may have been mediocre at your central task of drying me, but you did it with such cheapness that you were impossible not to love. I miss you!
- Sometimes I start missing home, and then I realize something like "I am on a train between France and Spain right now instead of at work. This is awesome!" Yeah, that makes it easier to handle.
- Facebook is a great way to keep up with people while I am gone, but I have noticed people using Facebook as a forum to share grand plans that they have that they will likely not follow through on. As a person currently following through on a grand plan, I highly suggest doing so. Why not? After all, we only live once.
- Europe may not be as interesting as Asia or as naturally beautiful as Oceania, but man, this place is just filled to the brim with awesome and historical things, is incredibly easy to get around, and is straight up fantastic.
That's it. It turned into an epic post anyways because of the sheer volume of thoughts, but that is probably pretty unsurprising to all of you.
One other thing I'd like to add is that if you want a postcard, let me know in the comments (along with your mailing address). Also, if you want it from a specific place, let me know that too.
Music of the day: Girl Talk - Feed the Animals
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