Hardcore Days & Softcore Nights

This trip has been filled with highlight after highlight. Even some of the things that have been small and seemingly innocuous have been instantly memorable - quick segue, recently in Florence's main train station, I saw a guy who had a Lupin shirt on. Lupin is a Japanese anime TV show, and it reminded me of a night spent in Kyoto, Japan with a guy from England, one from Sweden, and one from Poland, where we watched insane cartoons while the guy from Sweden translated and we all had beers. It was hysterical.

Anyways, back to the main story...there have been a lot of things that I will look back forever on with joy and happiness. Some of the best and most memorable times of my life.

Not that long ago I enjoyed what will quite likely be the best 24 hour period of my entire trip.

I was in Siena, Italy, a smaller city in Tuscany with a population of around 60,000 people that was touristy but not without a whole lot of charm thanks to the fact that most tourists only take day trips to it from Florence. That leaves the evenings and mornings as times with far quieter streets and more enjoyable times for those staying the night.

On my first evening there, I went to a Rick Steves recommended restaurant called Osteria Nonna Gina. Named after the former proprietor of the business, this little restaurant was rustic, authentic and very, very good. With that said, I was enjoying a romantic dining destination by myself. Highly problematic for some...no big deal for me at all.

I enjoyed my meal greatly, which started with bruschetta, followed with a gnocchi primi that was to die for, and closed with a secondi that was, well, I believe was, a roasted big leg. All delicious, especially the last item, a massive pork extravaganza that was packed with flavor and then some.

After I wrapped up, the waitress asked if I wanted an espresso or dessert, and I said no...but thanks. You know, being polite and all.

A little bit later, she showed back up and said she had a present for me...a bottle of homemade Amaretto and Grappa with a shot glass. The Grappa was not exactly welcome, as I am not entirely unconvinced that Grappa is paint thinner. However, the Amaretto was heavenly and reason enough for people to go to this restaurant on its own.

While Amaretto is not one of my favorite liquors in any way, shape or form, this was a marvelous drink that transcended its origins into some sort of super food. I was so enamored with it I had to interrupt the couple next to me who were enjoying their dinner without me interrupting them.

Next thing you know they were enjoying it, I was enjoying it, I was saddened to find out it was not mine to keep, but before I had left I had consumed half of a bottle and befriended the couple (who were from Texas) over booze, travel and music.

And so it begins.

Eventually, after departing the restaurant simultaneously (we closed the place down, both the Texans and I got there around opening at 7:30 and ended up leaving around 11:30), we agreed that we should keep the night going into infinity. So we headed to the grand piazza in the center of this wondrous city - Il Campo.

Once there, we consumed wine, the world's greatest mojitos (no kidding), and quickly befriended a slew of Italian university students who were near us in the piazza. They were fire twirlers, musicians and generally entertaining people (our IBFF - Italian Best Friend Forever - was a charming guy who wanted to be a comedian and thinks Bill Hicks is a god), and they welcomed us in with open arms. The three of us, Alyssa, Ben (the artists previously known as the Texans) and myself, got to enjoy something many travelers do not get - complete and utter assimilation into a local group.

It was wonderful, and by the time the night was closing with all three of our faces adorned with Italian flags at 4 in the morning, we were giddy and satisfied with our experience.

The next morning was supposed to start early so I could be on a Vespa by 9:30 am, but free Amaretto had different ideas. Instead, I was an hour late and only had 8 hours on the Vespa from Perozzi, the delightful rental company in Siena. The woman who rented me the bike was highly entertaining and very sweet, taking photos of me as she insisted I looked like "cheeps" with my aviator sunglasses (aka CHIPs, the 80's TV show starring an aviator wearing Erik Estrada), and was the perfect way to start my trip.

This was my lifelong Italian dream, and by the time I was 200 feet from the rental joint my mind was throwing down touchdown dances internally.

I spent the day checking out castles, roaming the Chianti region of Tuscany, accidentally going to awesome markets (and enjoying delectable pork products in the process), witnessing (but not enjoying) almost comically cheap wine tastings (don't drink and drive Vespas people!), dodging lightning (the crazy storm I went through briefly was honestly wildly entertaining in its panic inducing ways), and all in all having one of the best days ever.

I did ridiculous things while on the Vespa. I had occasional reprises of my Thai moped experience by belting out songs as I traveled (The Smiths' "Please, Please, Please" was a favorite). I added a new wrinkle, as I would yell in an Italian accent every sign I went past (which ranged from town names like "Castlellini" to signs that just showed pandas on it). It was a blast. I entertained myself thoroughly.

By the time I returned, I was a walking smile, grinning like a complete fool for the rest of my lazy and cheap pizza al taglio filled evening. Because why not? In the last 24 hours I had a legendary night out on the town in one of the most beautiful piazzas in Italy AND accomplished a life dream.

That's not exactly chopped liver.

Music of the day: New Beirut! "East Harlem" single is out! So good!

Living the Dream

One of the major reasons why I went to Italy in 2009 for me personally wasn't to see the Grand Canal, nor the Coliseum, nor the Statue of David, or anything else that people really go to Italy for. Really, it wasn't even to eat, which is a rarity for me (I like not love Italian food).

It was to drive a Vespa in Italy.

I have no idea why but I have always wanted to do that. It's an odd and small thing to desire, but there is something just so attractive about the concept.

Yet I never did it. I claimed that the reason why was it was just too dangerous, but I think it was more that I was a little scared of negotiating the awful and crazy streets of Rome using a device I had never used previously.

In my trip so far though, I have had a couple chances to drive a moped and I've built up confidence in my skills, which is great even if it is completely irrational confidence. This is good because it is a quality skill to have (you never know when you'll need to know how to drive a moped!) but also because I am headed back to Italy specifically for the purpose of driving a Vespa through wine country in Tuscany.

Just let that sink in for a second...I am accomplishing a life goal AND doing something ridiculously awesome even without personal opinions worked in at the same time. Doubly fantastic, if I do say so myself.

I'll be staying in Siena, a lovely little town in the heart of Tuscany about an hour and forty five minutes by train from Florence, for two nights and three days explicitly so I can adventure around with my trusty motored steed. Sure, I'll likely eat some incredible country Italian food and have some superb wine at the same time, but when you get down to it I am there for the experience of coasting through the rolling hills of wine country, belting out the three songs I know that seem Italian in my mind as I drive around.

I can't think of a better way to spend a few days.

Music of the day: Dean Martin - That's Amore (is there anything more cliche Italian in music from an American perspective?)