The past week has been a complete blur (or maybe more than a week depending on when I post this), and that is thanks to trying to take in all of Barcelona AND attending Primavera Sound music festival over a five day period (plus negotiating Madrid on zero rest as well as figuring out the rest of my trip...but that is another story for another time).
But it was completely worth it - Barcelona was easily one of the best places I have ever been, and Primavera Sound was an insanely good time.
First off, Barcelona was a beautiful and vibrant city, especially thanks to one man - Gaudi. This architect started the Modernism movement and his works are omnipresent in Barcelona. I loved them all, but in particular I enjoyed Parc Guell (where my Gaudi and Primavera experiences intertwined as I met Wayne Coyne - lead singer of The Flaming Lips - here), a majestic and dreamlike landscape in the Eixample section of the city.
Existing in opposition to the heavenly layout of Parc Guell was the massive and oddly scary Sagrada Familia. This incredibly detailed church was the crown jewel of Gaudi's work, yet in the 43 years before his death (he started it in 1883) he worked on it he never completed it. Since then, work has continued to finish it. I spoke to a woman from England who had been there 30 years previous and she said it barely even looked the same as when she had come in the past. Whatever was happening with it, it seemed as if it rose from some circle of hell to take form on Earth...but in a way that is insanely awesome. I thought it was one of the best and certainly the most unique church I have ever seen.
The rest of his work was great, as was the remainder of my experience. It was highlighted by an unfathomably cool restaurant named La Cerverceria Catalan that excelled in making food that made me say "WOW!" I went there three times thanks to the recommendation of my one-time camping mate Lucy Raskin (of the Megatron Bieber family), and enjoyed it more with each successive venture. I tried nothing more than once, but everything was incredible, from the liver served on artichoke with some fancy sauce (LIVER!) to the Oeufs "Cabreaos" (fried potato strings with two fried eggs on top and a spicy tomato sauce) to the just absurdly good calamari - this place redefined tapas in my mind. All in all, in three days I had 9 dishes, two cappucinos, two beers (one was bought for me!) and a lot of good conversations with the diners next to me (who were from Spain, the UK and San Francisco respectively). This place was a blast with great service, amazing food and very reasonable prices. If you are ever in Barcelona, I highly recommend it.
Now, as for Primavera Sound, this bad boy was a bit of a mess at times (I am uncertain as to how well this thing is run), but the experience was an awesome one that found me making my way back to my bed past sun up multiple times, making a bunch of friends in a hurry (from Ireland, Dubai, Canada and England in particular), and enjoying some varied performances.
I say varied because the music itself was pretty up and down. There was the predictably amazing performance (The Flaming Lips). There was the surprisingly incredible one (James Blake - so much soul!). There was the big disappointment (Animal Collective - three songs anyone knew and no encore in an hour and ten minutes). There was a lot of good (Of Montreal, Big Boi, Explosions in the Sky, DJ Shadow, The Walkmen, tUnE-yArDs, Matthew Dear, Caribou, Interpol, Belle & Sebastian) and some just eh performances (The National - third time I have seen them, essentially the same set every time). It was a ton of fun and a bit hard to get used to thanks to the crazy schedule - Girl Talk went on at 5 am! - but I recommend it as a festival overall. Besides Animal Collective, it seems as if this festival pushes bands to give it their all, and that is an awesome, awesome thing if you are a regular festival goer.
Perhaps the biggest surprise of my whole time in Barcelona was the experience of watching the Champions League final between Manchester United and Barcelona live at the festival. The Llevant stage was converted into a place for the slew of Barcelona fans (and the small contingent of Man U fans who would identify themselves) to watch, and myself and my Saturday festival mates Josh and John (from Bristol - THE HOME OF DUBSTEP!) watched the whole thing, soaking in the celebration as Barca won 3 to 1. It was a joyous thing, and it was best experienced there (rather than in the main place for it - Placa de Catalunya - which ended up having visitors forced to stay until 5:30 am by Barcelona police).
Five days of pure awesome in Barcelona, filled with surprise and just amazing experiences right and left. While I wanted to continue on my Spanish adventure and the start of it in Madrid was nice enough, it felt right to head out and head east now. Barcelona was going to top everything anyways, so might as well get my Switzerland on sooner rather than later (did I mention I changed my itinerary again?).
Music of the day: The Flaming Lips - Do You Realize?
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Where We're Going, We Don't Need Roads...Just Train Tracks
Some of you may be wondering where I am headed while in the European portion of my trip. To you I have this - I have been wondering the same thing! Oddly enough, I had no plans save a concert in late May in Barcelona and a concert in London at the end of June. Past that, I've got nothin'. Just a wing and a prayer...and a Eurail pass (that part is more important).
Well, I thought it out a bit now (given the amount of time I have had to think thanks to many, many train rides), so may I present the prospective itinerary of the Europeean portion of my trip. This is subject to much change and it is only what I have brewed up quickly in my head over the past few days.
- Barcelona for the next five days
- Granada
- Cadiz
- Madrid
- Lisbon
- Bilbao (hopefully just for the day to see the Guggenheim Museum and then a night train towards Italy)
- A few days in Tuscany with a moped
- Croatia (Dalmatian Coast!)
- Istanbul
- Train from Istanbul to Vienna to recreate the Before Sunset ride
- Prague
- Poland specifically for Auschwitz (what can I say, I like WWII and I am weird and morbid)
- Bavaria in Germany specifically for the Eagle's Nest (more WWII), Black Forest, and seeing my friend Katharina again
- Berlin
- Hamburg (guided tour of a area known for tons of prostitutes? yes please!)
- Back to Heidelberg (Kerstin!)
- Amsterdam
- Brugge/Bruges/Whatever the place Colin Farrell couldn't stand in Belgium
- Back to Paris for a day trip to Nantes
- Back to London for a concert
- Scotland/Ireland to close the trip
That may be way too much, to be perfectly honest. I am a freakishly efficient traveler, but with train travel mixed in it might be too much to work in. With that said, I think I can swing it but may end up cutting out part of my Spain section. I do not know a ton in Spain, and what I do know is that I really think the Guggenheim in Bilbao is spectacular and I know I cannot miss anything in Barcelona. The rest is passable in my mind.
If I am going to add anywhere, it will likely be Capri down in Southern Italy, but that may be problematic - it is pretty far south so it will take me a couple days off my path and it will take me back to Rome which, to be honest, I have no interest in doing. So that is likely out, no matter how pretty it looks.
So there you have it! Feel free to give me any feedback or suggestions on places I should go, even if you haven't been there yourself and just think they look really pretty. I am open to anything and would love to hear from you all.
Music of the day: Back to the Future Theme
Well, I thought it out a bit now (given the amount of time I have had to think thanks to many, many train rides), so may I present the prospective itinerary of the Europeean portion of my trip. This is subject to much change and it is only what I have brewed up quickly in my head over the past few days.
- Barcelona for the next five days
- Granada
- Cadiz
- Madrid
- Lisbon
- Bilbao (hopefully just for the day to see the Guggenheim Museum and then a night train towards Italy)
- A few days in Tuscany with a moped
- Croatia (Dalmatian Coast!)
- Istanbul
- Train from Istanbul to Vienna to recreate the Before Sunset ride
- Prague
- Poland specifically for Auschwitz (what can I say, I like WWII and I am weird and morbid)
- Bavaria in Germany specifically for the Eagle's Nest (more WWII), Black Forest, and seeing my friend Katharina again
- Berlin
- Hamburg (guided tour of a area known for tons of prostitutes? yes please!)
- Back to Heidelberg (Kerstin!)
- Amsterdam
- Brugge/Bruges/Whatever the place Colin Farrell couldn't stand in Belgium
- Back to Paris for a day trip to Nantes
- Back to London for a concert
- Scotland/Ireland to close the trip
That may be way too much, to be perfectly honest. I am a freakishly efficient traveler, but with train travel mixed in it might be too much to work in. With that said, I think I can swing it but may end up cutting out part of my Spain section. I do not know a ton in Spain, and what I do know is that I really think the Guggenheim in Bilbao is spectacular and I know I cannot miss anything in Barcelona. The rest is passable in my mind.
If I am going to add anywhere, it will likely be Capri down in Southern Italy, but that may be problematic - it is pretty far south so it will take me a couple days off my path and it will take me back to Rome which, to be honest, I have no interest in doing. So that is likely out, no matter how pretty it looks.
So there you have it! Feel free to give me any feedback or suggestions on places I should go, even if you haven't been there yourself and just think they look really pretty. I am open to anything and would love to hear from you all.
Music of the day: Back to the Future Theme
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Little Thoughts
I am on a train going from Montpellier, France to Figueras, Spain, and since I have gotten to Europe it has been a bit of a whirlwind tour. Seven days in London, 2 in Paris, 3 in Heidelberg, Germany, 2 in Nice (with jaunts to Monaco and Cannes in there as well), and 1 in Marseille later and I have covered four countries and am on my way to a fifth. Europe is kind of the anti-Australia - no matter where you go...there you are (to quote Confucius and, perhaps more importantly, Buckaroo Banzai).
I don't have any epic posts for you right now (sorry!), but I do have a bunch of little thoughts associated with my journey so far. Take what you get blog readers!
- Writing a blog while traveling, even with tons of time on trains, is pretty difficult. When you can't think of something to write, you can go a while without posting and that leads to a boring blog, and when you do think of something it is quite often when you have the least opportunity. Sorry everyone!
- The things you take for granted are quite often the most amazing thing to others. Three examples:
1) I posted this on Facebook, but people in Japan reacted to me saying I was from Alaska like I would if I found out what one of my best friends was actually from the moon.
2) In London near Buckingham Palace, I saw a huge amount of people in a circle with their cameras out. Given the crowd, I expected a live unicorn or at the very least a small dinosaur. I pushed to the front and it was...a squirrel.
3) In Marseille, I was walking up by a huge chateau with a view overlooking the Mediterranean. There was a ferry leaving the port and all of the people near me were shocked and awed by the size of it. One person was actually covering their mouth. I was entertained.
- Europe during the summer, even if it isn't the real summer, is more expensive to stay at than even one month previous was when I came in 2009.
- The Cannes Film Festival is way less glamorous and exciting when you don't have a press pass and are actually there. It is like a less interesting comic convention with more fashionable and famous people. That may be the understatement of the century - comic fans are not fashionable.
- Monaco is great, but in particular, the Monte Carlo Casino is so freakishly amazing it will likely line up as being one of the best times of my trip. The building itself is gorgeous, and I personally contributed 30 Euro to it via gambling but it was so incredibly worth it. I have to say - I was up 10 Euro at one point. Which is when I should have quit.
- Europeans love bakeries. In France and Germany, you can't go past three buildings without going past somewhere that has absurdly delicious looking baked goods.
- Booking ahead on hostels REALLY pays off, and not booking ahead does not. The hostel I stayed in one night in Paris as I transitioned between Heidelberg and Nice was easily the worst hostel I have ever stayed at. Peace and Love Hostel should die!
- With that said, the place I stayed in Marseille (Vertigo Vieux Port) I booked the day before I went and it was remarkably great. Top staff, free breakfast, beautiful art everywhere, interesting architecture, great location, free and fast wifi and internet...major fan of this place.
- Paris is just as wonderful as I remembered. Best city ever, man.
- Even when you get to major cities like London, small town things can happen. I was in a comic shop doing some reading (what can I say, I'm an addict) when I ran into comic writer Nick Spencer and his girlfriend. I interviewed him at the beginning of my trip at Emerald City ComiCon...in Seattle. Fun!
- For two days, I was lonely. It was my friends Kerstin and Katharina's fault, as I hung out with them in Heidelberg and had an amazing time, and then left them and was sad to be by myself again. But I got over it because Marseille was super nice AND my hostel was filled with cool people.
- Having ample time to read random things and meeting random people allows me to become well versed in random subjects. For example, last night I had an extensive conversation with a guy from Montreal about the state of Canadian politics and I was able to hold my own. It was riveting (probably the only person to use that word about Canadian politics).
- Most Americans I meet act like I am a wild and impressive person because I have been so many places and have been traveling as long as I have been. I enjoy this.
- Missing the NBA Playoffs really sucks, but it has led me to discover my new favorite sports website - The Basketball Jones. I have actually had crazy laughing fits at 1 am in hostels because of this damn site, leading most everyone in the room I am in to think I am nuts. SCIENCE!
- Japanese food is crazy healthy. European food...not so much. I think I am gaining weight again even with walking at least 15 miles a day, and I blame the fact that I am eating roughly 13 loaves of bread a day.
- I was genuinely saddened by losing my towel today. I bought it for 5 New Zealand dollars in a K-Mart in Christchurch, and now I am lost without it. Awkward towel with sea creatures on it, you may have been mediocre at your central task of drying me, but you did it with such cheapness that you were impossible not to love. I miss you!
- Sometimes I start missing home, and then I realize something like "I am on a train between France and Spain right now instead of at work. This is awesome!" Yeah, that makes it easier to handle.
- Facebook is a great way to keep up with people while I am gone, but I have noticed people using Facebook as a forum to share grand plans that they have that they will likely not follow through on. As a person currently following through on a grand plan, I highly suggest doing so. Why not? After all, we only live once.
- Europe may not be as interesting as Asia or as naturally beautiful as Oceania, but man, this place is just filled to the brim with awesome and historical things, is incredibly easy to get around, and is straight up fantastic.
That's it. It turned into an epic post anyways because of the sheer volume of thoughts, but that is probably pretty unsurprising to all of you.
One other thing I'd like to add is that if you want a postcard, let me know in the comments (along with your mailing address). Also, if you want it from a specific place, let me know that too.
Music of the day: Girl Talk - Feed the Animals
I don't have any epic posts for you right now (sorry!), but I do have a bunch of little thoughts associated with my journey so far. Take what you get blog readers!
- Writing a blog while traveling, even with tons of time on trains, is pretty difficult. When you can't think of something to write, you can go a while without posting and that leads to a boring blog, and when you do think of something it is quite often when you have the least opportunity. Sorry everyone!
- The things you take for granted are quite often the most amazing thing to others. Three examples:
1) I posted this on Facebook, but people in Japan reacted to me saying I was from Alaska like I would if I found out what one of my best friends was actually from the moon.
2) In London near Buckingham Palace, I saw a huge amount of people in a circle with their cameras out. Given the crowd, I expected a live unicorn or at the very least a small dinosaur. I pushed to the front and it was...a squirrel.
3) In Marseille, I was walking up by a huge chateau with a view overlooking the Mediterranean. There was a ferry leaving the port and all of the people near me were shocked and awed by the size of it. One person was actually covering their mouth. I was entertained.
- Europe during the summer, even if it isn't the real summer, is more expensive to stay at than even one month previous was when I came in 2009.
- The Cannes Film Festival is way less glamorous and exciting when you don't have a press pass and are actually there. It is like a less interesting comic convention with more fashionable and famous people. That may be the understatement of the century - comic fans are not fashionable.
- Monaco is great, but in particular, the Monte Carlo Casino is so freakishly amazing it will likely line up as being one of the best times of my trip. The building itself is gorgeous, and I personally contributed 30 Euro to it via gambling but it was so incredibly worth it. I have to say - I was up 10 Euro at one point. Which is when I should have quit.
- Europeans love bakeries. In France and Germany, you can't go past three buildings without going past somewhere that has absurdly delicious looking baked goods.
- Booking ahead on hostels REALLY pays off, and not booking ahead does not. The hostel I stayed in one night in Paris as I transitioned between Heidelberg and Nice was easily the worst hostel I have ever stayed at. Peace and Love Hostel should die!
- With that said, the place I stayed in Marseille (Vertigo Vieux Port) I booked the day before I went and it was remarkably great. Top staff, free breakfast, beautiful art everywhere, interesting architecture, great location, free and fast wifi and internet...major fan of this place.
- Paris is just as wonderful as I remembered. Best city ever, man.
- Even when you get to major cities like London, small town things can happen. I was in a comic shop doing some reading (what can I say, I'm an addict) when I ran into comic writer Nick Spencer and his girlfriend. I interviewed him at the beginning of my trip at Emerald City ComiCon...in Seattle. Fun!
- For two days, I was lonely. It was my friends Kerstin and Katharina's fault, as I hung out with them in Heidelberg and had an amazing time, and then left them and was sad to be by myself again. But I got over it because Marseille was super nice AND my hostel was filled with cool people.
- Having ample time to read random things and meeting random people allows me to become well versed in random subjects. For example, last night I had an extensive conversation with a guy from Montreal about the state of Canadian politics and I was able to hold my own. It was riveting (probably the only person to use that word about Canadian politics).
- Most Americans I meet act like I am a wild and impressive person because I have been so many places and have been traveling as long as I have been. I enjoy this.
- Missing the NBA Playoffs really sucks, but it has led me to discover my new favorite sports website - The Basketball Jones. I have actually had crazy laughing fits at 1 am in hostels because of this damn site, leading most everyone in the room I am in to think I am nuts. SCIENCE!
- Japanese food is crazy healthy. European food...not so much. I think I am gaining weight again even with walking at least 15 miles a day, and I blame the fact that I am eating roughly 13 loaves of bread a day.
- I was genuinely saddened by losing my towel today. I bought it for 5 New Zealand dollars in a K-Mart in Christchurch, and now I am lost without it. Awkward towel with sea creatures on it, you may have been mediocre at your central task of drying me, but you did it with such cheapness that you were impossible not to love. I miss you!
- Sometimes I start missing home, and then I realize something like "I am on a train between France and Spain right now instead of at work. This is awesome!" Yeah, that makes it easier to handle.
- Facebook is a great way to keep up with people while I am gone, but I have noticed people using Facebook as a forum to share grand plans that they have that they will likely not follow through on. As a person currently following through on a grand plan, I highly suggest doing so. Why not? After all, we only live once.
- Europe may not be as interesting as Asia or as naturally beautiful as Oceania, but man, this place is just filled to the brim with awesome and historical things, is incredibly easy to get around, and is straight up fantastic.
That's it. It turned into an epic post anyways because of the sheer volume of thoughts, but that is probably pretty unsurprising to all of you.
One other thing I'd like to add is that if you want a postcard, let me know in the comments (along with your mailing address). Also, if you want it from a specific place, let me know that too.
Music of the day: Girl Talk - Feed the Animals
Saturday, May 21, 2011
Around the World at the Half: The Best and the Worst
I've decided to just skip my Japan wrap up altogether. Not because I don't want to do it, but because I am really freaking lazy! Or something like that.
Truth be told, in this post that looks back at the best and the worst of my trip pre Europe, Japan will he heavily featured, so it will be easy to cover any ground I may have missed. So let's get to it...the best and the worst of my trip so far.
Best Country: Japan
Why?: I've always wanted to do something like this trip, and it is because, I think at least, a certain level of need for adventure that exists within me. I always want to get out and do something great, something grand, something new.
And while every country I have gone to feels like that to a degree, going to Japan feels like something completely unlike anywhere else in the world. It feels like another planet! It reminded me of a JLA arc Tower of Babel written by Mark Waid, in which the minds of everyone on the Earth were altered so they did not understand language - it just looked like shapes to them. That's what a lot of Japan was - signs with shapes and the innate hope that I was going the right way and doing the right thing.
While that may not sound attractive to others, isn't that the basic component of adventure? Sailing off into parts unknown at its most all encompassing level can be found in Japan. Other countries cater to Western culture with signs in English and their home language, while Japan rarely does. It gets down to DIY traveling and communicating using whatever methods you have at hand. I found this to be an awesome experience.
Throw in the best food and lodging as well as the fact that it is so convenient to get around the country at a surprisingly inexpensive cost and you have an amazing place through and through.
Worst Country: Australia
Why?: I wrote a break up letter to this country. Do you need further explanation, really?
Best Major City: Melbourne, Australia
Why?: The first major shocker of the list! Ahh!!! How can my least favorite country house the favorite major city?! Well, it is quite simple - New Zealand had nondescript cities, Sydney kind of sucked, Brisbane was like New Zealand, Chiang Mai felt too small, and all of the Japanese cities were amazing but didn't stand out as much.
Oh yeah, and Melbourne itself is pretty amazing. Culturally robust streets, filled with artists and great food, top notch mass transit, fairly inexpensive (lots of free exhibits to take in), nice hostels, and great timing (Melbourne Comedy Festival and Supanova Pop Culture Expo were going when I was there) combine into an amazing time. It is beautiful, happening and one of the places I could see myself living.
Worst Major City: Bangkok, Thailand
Why?: Before I went there I watched a No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain in which he described it as a place that your clothes can't help but stick to your body. Good god he was so right - even though I was there just for a day, Bangkok is a place that is sickeningly hot. Humid, scorching and packed with 10+ million people crowding around you to sell you their knock off brand sunglasses and Manchester United jerseys, it was so intense that I felt the need to retreat to a local mall to survive. And that is not an understatement.
Best Non Major City/Town: Hiroshima, Japan
Why?: With regards to Chiang Mai, Thailand and Wanaka, New Zealand, Hiroshima was one of the best experiences I've ever had. Walking the streets, you find it impossible not to think of the fact that this city was once flattened by a nuclear bomb - and not that long ago. Hiroshima being a beautiful, lively place with the most peaceful disposition of anywhere I've been is a testament to the perseverance, honor and efficiency of Japan as a whole.
Throw in a great hostel, the best Okonomiyaki in the country, and the otherworldly greatness of nearby island Miyajima, and you have a plCe I will not forget any time soon.
Worst Non Major City/Town: Paihia, New Zealand
Why?: Just a completely nondescript beach town that doubles as a (near as I can tell) Frat boy resort on weekends. It was one of the few places I felt desperate to get out of. It's a shame this experience is attached to the flat out incredible Bay of Islands.
Best Food: Japan
Why?: At its worst (Takoyaki) it is remarkably interesting and occasionally good. At its best, it is consistently the best food in the world. The sushi tastes like a different version than what I get elsewhere, the ramen makes the name Top Ramen feel like a case of completely indecent copyright infringement, the katsu is crisp and delicious even at rainy baseball games, the tempura tries to bring tasty tears to my eyed, and everything else is somewhere between very good and delicious.
One of my favorite things to say about it is this: a very high percentage of the time I had little to no idea as to what I was eating, but I ate it anyways. Why? Because I was filled with faith to the core of me that not only would this not hurt me, but it would be absolutely delectable.
And it never let me down.
Worst Food: New Zealand
Why?: British food without the aid of the influence of millions of Asian implants. That is not a compliment. However, they did make wicked Eggs Benedict and their beer and coffee are universally good.
Best Living Situation: Japan
Why?: Every hostel was awesome. Decently priced, wifi EVERYWHERE, super comfy beds, good privacy considering the fact I sometimes shared a room with 7 people, fantastic staff, and the awesome touch of all of them sending me personalized emails after I left (including one that told me my warm greetings brightened the day of every staff member). I loved them, each and every one of them.
Best Hostel: Noosa Flashpackers in Noosa, Australia.
Why?: This is the best hostel I have ever stayed in. A warm environment that immediately turns disparate groups of people into a community, superb shuttle service, nice kitchen, a DVD library and huge TV on days that it rains (of which there are many in Noosa), WiFi, and free computers to write emails and upload pictures on. Plus, the staff was very personable and the cost was very reasonable.
Worst Living Situation: New Zealand
Why?: Besides Hogwartz in Dunedin (which was predictably amazing) and the YHA Purple Cow in Wanaka, I was fairly unimpressed with hostels in New Zealand. Could have been bad luck, but the places I stayed on the North Island in particular were pretty weak.
Best Experience (tie): Swimming with Dolphins in the Bay of Islands (New Zealand), Bungie Jumping in Queenstown (New Zealand), First Day of Songkran Festival in Chiang Mai (Thailand), Motorbiking Around Koh Samui (Thailand), Day One of Emerald City ComiCon (Seattle)
Why?: Each were amazing for different reasons, but all of them will stick with me for the rest of my life. I will never forget:
- swimming in the Bay of Islands, then going under to see two dolphins joining me, one on each side
- leaping off the Kawarau Bridge and reaching the bottom and immediately releasing the hardest laugh of my life
- running into a busy street of Chiang Mai and splashing two motorcyclists with a bucket of water, turning around to the bar I was hanging out at in the late afternoon to see a slew of people laughing hysterically and clapping for me - it was my stage of water based hijinks, and you better believe I took a bow
- roaming the circular path around Koh Samui by motorbike, gleefully being my own radio as I belted out Bobby Darin's "Beyond the Sea" at the top of my lungs, realizing a lifelong dream in the most ridiculpous way possible
- speaking to numerous well known comic creators I admire with my 4 Color News and Brews co-anchor Brandon at Emerald City ComiCon and not only being recognized but thanked, and following that up with an unforgettable evening featuring Brandon and I participating in a live art show with two big artists in the industry. Not bad.
Worst Experience: Animal conditions in Chiang Mai Zoo (Thailand)
Why?: Animal love (not in a weird way) has been a consistent theme of my trip to date, and to see the conditions a lot of animals live in and the lack of respect they are given by visitors and staff alike was really hard to take. Two things in particular stood out: seeing a woman throw a partially eaten corn dog at an ostrich - stick and all - which easily could result in the animal dying by choking on the stick, and then seeing a baby elephant chained around the ankles (or whatever you would say for an elephant) and left out for anyone to come up and do whatever they wanted to it.
It was disgusting, and the latter was particularly distasteful given the image Thailand pushes on their audience of them being so caring for their beloved elephants. Then why don't you show it?
Biggest Cultural Transition: Lack of Constant Data Feed
Why?: Slot this one in as sad but true. In Alaska, on my phone I always have data and there is wifi everywhere for my laptop and iPad. Elsewhere? Not so much. Not having the ability to always be connected took some adjusting, even though I would easily admit how sad that is. I'm a creature of modern culture, so to not have email access and Facebooks and things of that sort was jarring at first. It has gotten to be less of a deal, but it such a weird thing to happen at all. Hook it to my veins?
Best Transportation: Japan
Why?: This isn't even a contest. The Shinkansen bullet trains in Japan are the best in the world - incredibly fast, quiet and comfortable, every city has a mass transit system that rivals the best in the world, and it all is an easy answer to the question "how do I get from here to there?" Throw in the JR pass I had that I just had to flash to a rail employee to get on almost any train no questions asked and you have the perfect system.
I love mass transit and it is a shame everywhere doesn't have the idea as well conceived as Japan does. If they did, everyone would use it.
Worst Transportation: Australia
Why?: Would you like to take a slow and shoddy bus or a cramped and unfriendly plane? Take your pick because there is no cost advantage on either side. I suppose at least the plane is fast, but still, the Australian experience was hampered by the transportation issues.
Best Accessories: Day Bag, iPad
Why?: I would be so screwed without my day bag. Granted, it has turned out to really just be a second bag, but I rarely go anywhere without it and it provides peace of mind and comfort (simply by not being my other huge bag). Plus, it was inexpensive. Great buy.
My iPad hasn't been a perfect option (I wish it had a webcam so I could Skype with people and that it had a USB so I could upload pics), but it has been convenient and extremely useful whenever I need a connection or a brief respite of entertainment. Bonus points for keeping me connected to my beloved comic world (I could easily see myself buying comics digitally now), giving me access to sweet, sweet B.S. Report podcasts from Bill Simmomns, and for keeping me active in my Fantasy Baseball league - second place baby!!!
Best Idea to Date: Getting a JR Pass Before Japan
Why?: The JR pass is ridiculously cost effective (I can't imagine how much I saved, but I can only assume it is roughly infinity dollars), it makes the act of train travel SUPER easy, and, unlike with its European counterpart the Eurail Pass, reservations are free. Super awesome! This was the gift that kept on giving.
Biggest Mistake To Date: Packing errors aplenty
Why?: If I had the chance to do anything over again, it would be how I packed. Too many pairs of underwear, weird choices like a Leatherman and flashlight I've never used, only one button up shirt, no coat, terrible shoes, and forgetting a towel. The thing that I really wish I had, of all of those, is more button ups. They are an easy way to make yourself look presentable without having to try too hard. Instead I have a ton of t-shirts and 3 sweaters I rarely use. Sigh...
Favorite Anything: The Constant First Time Experiences
Why?: I have done so many things for the first time on this trip I can barely even remember them all. Bungie jumping, hitch hiking, riding a motorbike, growing a beard, you name it, I have done it. I love them, as I firmly believe everything should be tried because you never know what will be your next new favorite thing.
Best Collectibles: Photos and Stamps
Why?: When I was in New Zealand with former coworkers Paulette and Sharee, Paulette wondered what I would do to remember my trip if I wasn't buying souvenirs and what not. The most straightforward answer I had was "I will just remember it." Which is true. But I suppose if I had to have something to really remember my trip with, I will fall back on the thousands of pictures I have taken. I mean, if a picture is worth a thousand words, then I am well into the millions. That is quite a few books worth of books, so I am quite good on the memory front.
One thing I love though is the collection of stamps I have gotten so far. Obviously I have gotten New Zealand, Japan, Thailand, Australia, England and the EU, but my favorite surprise had to be China. For some it would be annoying to go through passport control just for a transfer, but it got me a stamp! Not only that, but a sweet, evil looking one that seemed like it actually came from the Dharma Initiative. Yes!
Things I Miss the Most: Comics
Why?: Just a note - this does not include people or places! So please no one get worked up over this category.
While it is true that I have not really completely lost touch with comics (thanks to comic company review copies my site gets and occasional visits to international comic shops), I still miss going to get comics every Wednesday and devouring them step by step. I even miss writing reviews of the comics (although I still do this from time to time). And I really miss Friday nights at Brandon's, talking comics and drinking beer on camera for our tens of viewers to witness. I miss your musk Brandon! When this is all said and done I think we should get an apartment together.
Things I Don't Really Miss Surprisingly: New Movies, Music, etc.
Why?: I saw someone tweeting about the awesome of the new Beastie Boys album and I had a quick thought pop in my head. Who cares if I listen to this new music or see new movies now or when I get back? They won't be any different in July as they are now...so what is the big deal? I can just catch them then. Sure, the same goes for comics, but for some reason it genuinely feels like I am missing out on something when I am out of touch with them. Maybe because I am actually part of a community that talks about them all of the time.
Weirdest Phenomenon: Losing Where I Am
Sometimes I will be reading a book or the internet and I will completely forget where I am. I will be completely zoned out. Then I will look up and realize I am entirely surrounded by Japanese people and get really confused. It's a very jarring experience.1`1111 1`
First Thing I Am Going To Do Upon My Return: Middle Way Breakfast Burrito...and You Are All Invited
Truth be told, in this post that looks back at the best and the worst of my trip pre Europe, Japan will he heavily featured, so it will be easy to cover any ground I may have missed. So let's get to it...the best and the worst of my trip so far.
Best Country: Japan
Why?: I've always wanted to do something like this trip, and it is because, I think at least, a certain level of need for adventure that exists within me. I always want to get out and do something great, something grand, something new.
And while every country I have gone to feels like that to a degree, going to Japan feels like something completely unlike anywhere else in the world. It feels like another planet! It reminded me of a JLA arc Tower of Babel written by Mark Waid, in which the minds of everyone on the Earth were altered so they did not understand language - it just looked like shapes to them. That's what a lot of Japan was - signs with shapes and the innate hope that I was going the right way and doing the right thing.
While that may not sound attractive to others, isn't that the basic component of adventure? Sailing off into parts unknown at its most all encompassing level can be found in Japan. Other countries cater to Western culture with signs in English and their home language, while Japan rarely does. It gets down to DIY traveling and communicating using whatever methods you have at hand. I found this to be an awesome experience.
Throw in the best food and lodging as well as the fact that it is so convenient to get around the country at a surprisingly inexpensive cost and you have an amazing place through and through.
Worst Country: Australia
Why?: I wrote a break up letter to this country. Do you need further explanation, really?
Best Major City: Melbourne, Australia
Why?: The first major shocker of the list! Ahh!!! How can my least favorite country house the favorite major city?! Well, it is quite simple - New Zealand had nondescript cities, Sydney kind of sucked, Brisbane was like New Zealand, Chiang Mai felt too small, and all of the Japanese cities were amazing but didn't stand out as much.
Oh yeah, and Melbourne itself is pretty amazing. Culturally robust streets, filled with artists and great food, top notch mass transit, fairly inexpensive (lots of free exhibits to take in), nice hostels, and great timing (Melbourne Comedy Festival and Supanova Pop Culture Expo were going when I was there) combine into an amazing time. It is beautiful, happening and one of the places I could see myself living.
Worst Major City: Bangkok, Thailand
Why?: Before I went there I watched a No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain in which he described it as a place that your clothes can't help but stick to your body. Good god he was so right - even though I was there just for a day, Bangkok is a place that is sickeningly hot. Humid, scorching and packed with 10+ million people crowding around you to sell you their knock off brand sunglasses and Manchester United jerseys, it was so intense that I felt the need to retreat to a local mall to survive. And that is not an understatement.
Best Non Major City/Town: Hiroshima, Japan
Why?: With regards to Chiang Mai, Thailand and Wanaka, New Zealand, Hiroshima was one of the best experiences I've ever had. Walking the streets, you find it impossible not to think of the fact that this city was once flattened by a nuclear bomb - and not that long ago. Hiroshima being a beautiful, lively place with the most peaceful disposition of anywhere I've been is a testament to the perseverance, honor and efficiency of Japan as a whole.
Throw in a great hostel, the best Okonomiyaki in the country, and the otherworldly greatness of nearby island Miyajima, and you have a plCe I will not forget any time soon.
Worst Non Major City/Town: Paihia, New Zealand
Why?: Just a completely nondescript beach town that doubles as a (near as I can tell) Frat boy resort on weekends. It was one of the few places I felt desperate to get out of. It's a shame this experience is attached to the flat out incredible Bay of Islands.
Best Food: Japan
Why?: At its worst (Takoyaki) it is remarkably interesting and occasionally good. At its best, it is consistently the best food in the world. The sushi tastes like a different version than what I get elsewhere, the ramen makes the name Top Ramen feel like a case of completely indecent copyright infringement, the katsu is crisp and delicious even at rainy baseball games, the tempura tries to bring tasty tears to my eyed, and everything else is somewhere between very good and delicious.
One of my favorite things to say about it is this: a very high percentage of the time I had little to no idea as to what I was eating, but I ate it anyways. Why? Because I was filled with faith to the core of me that not only would this not hurt me, but it would be absolutely delectable.
And it never let me down.
Worst Food: New Zealand
Why?: British food without the aid of the influence of millions of Asian implants. That is not a compliment. However, they did make wicked Eggs Benedict and their beer and coffee are universally good.
Best Living Situation: Japan
Why?: Every hostel was awesome. Decently priced, wifi EVERYWHERE, super comfy beds, good privacy considering the fact I sometimes shared a room with 7 people, fantastic staff, and the awesome touch of all of them sending me personalized emails after I left (including one that told me my warm greetings brightened the day of every staff member). I loved them, each and every one of them.
Best Hostel: Noosa Flashpackers in Noosa, Australia.
Why?: This is the best hostel I have ever stayed in. A warm environment that immediately turns disparate groups of people into a community, superb shuttle service, nice kitchen, a DVD library and huge TV on days that it rains (of which there are many in Noosa), WiFi, and free computers to write emails and upload pictures on. Plus, the staff was very personable and the cost was very reasonable.
Worst Living Situation: New Zealand
Why?: Besides Hogwartz in Dunedin (which was predictably amazing) and the YHA Purple Cow in Wanaka, I was fairly unimpressed with hostels in New Zealand. Could have been bad luck, but the places I stayed on the North Island in particular were pretty weak.
Best Experience (tie): Swimming with Dolphins in the Bay of Islands (New Zealand), Bungie Jumping in Queenstown (New Zealand), First Day of Songkran Festival in Chiang Mai (Thailand), Motorbiking Around Koh Samui (Thailand), Day One of Emerald City ComiCon (Seattle)
Why?: Each were amazing for different reasons, but all of them will stick with me for the rest of my life. I will never forget:
- swimming in the Bay of Islands, then going under to see two dolphins joining me, one on each side
- leaping off the Kawarau Bridge and reaching the bottom and immediately releasing the hardest laugh of my life
- running into a busy street of Chiang Mai and splashing two motorcyclists with a bucket of water, turning around to the bar I was hanging out at in the late afternoon to see a slew of people laughing hysterically and clapping for me - it was my stage of water based hijinks, and you better believe I took a bow
- roaming the circular path around Koh Samui by motorbike, gleefully being my own radio as I belted out Bobby Darin's "Beyond the Sea" at the top of my lungs, realizing a lifelong dream in the most ridiculpous way possible
- speaking to numerous well known comic creators I admire with my 4 Color News and Brews co-anchor Brandon at Emerald City ComiCon and not only being recognized but thanked, and following that up with an unforgettable evening featuring Brandon and I participating in a live art show with two big artists in the industry. Not bad.
Worst Experience: Animal conditions in Chiang Mai Zoo (Thailand)
Why?: Animal love (not in a weird way) has been a consistent theme of my trip to date, and to see the conditions a lot of animals live in and the lack of respect they are given by visitors and staff alike was really hard to take. Two things in particular stood out: seeing a woman throw a partially eaten corn dog at an ostrich - stick and all - which easily could result in the animal dying by choking on the stick, and then seeing a baby elephant chained around the ankles (or whatever you would say for an elephant) and left out for anyone to come up and do whatever they wanted to it.
It was disgusting, and the latter was particularly distasteful given the image Thailand pushes on their audience of them being so caring for their beloved elephants. Then why don't you show it?
Biggest Cultural Transition: Lack of Constant Data Feed
Why?: Slot this one in as sad but true. In Alaska, on my phone I always have data and there is wifi everywhere for my laptop and iPad. Elsewhere? Not so much. Not having the ability to always be connected took some adjusting, even though I would easily admit how sad that is. I'm a creature of modern culture, so to not have email access and Facebooks and things of that sort was jarring at first. It has gotten to be less of a deal, but it such a weird thing to happen at all. Hook it to my veins?
Best Transportation: Japan
Why?: This isn't even a contest. The Shinkansen bullet trains in Japan are the best in the world - incredibly fast, quiet and comfortable, every city has a mass transit system that rivals the best in the world, and it all is an easy answer to the question "how do I get from here to there?" Throw in the JR pass I had that I just had to flash to a rail employee to get on almost any train no questions asked and you have the perfect system.
I love mass transit and it is a shame everywhere doesn't have the idea as well conceived as Japan does. If they did, everyone would use it.
Worst Transportation: Australia
Why?: Would you like to take a slow and shoddy bus or a cramped and unfriendly plane? Take your pick because there is no cost advantage on either side. I suppose at least the plane is fast, but still, the Australian experience was hampered by the transportation issues.
Best Accessories: Day Bag, iPad
Why?: I would be so screwed without my day bag. Granted, it has turned out to really just be a second bag, but I rarely go anywhere without it and it provides peace of mind and comfort (simply by not being my other huge bag). Plus, it was inexpensive. Great buy.
My iPad hasn't been a perfect option (I wish it had a webcam so I could Skype with people and that it had a USB so I could upload pics), but it has been convenient and extremely useful whenever I need a connection or a brief respite of entertainment. Bonus points for keeping me connected to my beloved comic world (I could easily see myself buying comics digitally now), giving me access to sweet, sweet B.S. Report podcasts from Bill Simmomns, and for keeping me active in my Fantasy Baseball league - second place baby!!!
Best Idea to Date: Getting a JR Pass Before Japan
Why?: The JR pass is ridiculously cost effective (I can't imagine how much I saved, but I can only assume it is roughly infinity dollars), it makes the act of train travel SUPER easy, and, unlike with its European counterpart the Eurail Pass, reservations are free. Super awesome! This was the gift that kept on giving.
Biggest Mistake To Date: Packing errors aplenty
Why?: If I had the chance to do anything over again, it would be how I packed. Too many pairs of underwear, weird choices like a Leatherman and flashlight I've never used, only one button up shirt, no coat, terrible shoes, and forgetting a towel. The thing that I really wish I had, of all of those, is more button ups. They are an easy way to make yourself look presentable without having to try too hard. Instead I have a ton of t-shirts and 3 sweaters I rarely use. Sigh...
Favorite Anything: The Constant First Time Experiences
Why?: I have done so many things for the first time on this trip I can barely even remember them all. Bungie jumping, hitch hiking, riding a motorbike, growing a beard, you name it, I have done it. I love them, as I firmly believe everything should be tried because you never know what will be your next new favorite thing.
Best Collectibles: Photos and Stamps
Why?: When I was in New Zealand with former coworkers Paulette and Sharee, Paulette wondered what I would do to remember my trip if I wasn't buying souvenirs and what not. The most straightforward answer I had was "I will just remember it." Which is true. But I suppose if I had to have something to really remember my trip with, I will fall back on the thousands of pictures I have taken. I mean, if a picture is worth a thousand words, then I am well into the millions. That is quite a few books worth of books, so I am quite good on the memory front.
One thing I love though is the collection of stamps I have gotten so far. Obviously I have gotten New Zealand, Japan, Thailand, Australia, England and the EU, but my favorite surprise had to be China. For some it would be annoying to go through passport control just for a transfer, but it got me a stamp! Not only that, but a sweet, evil looking one that seemed like it actually came from the Dharma Initiative. Yes!
Things I Miss the Most: Comics
Why?: Just a note - this does not include people or places! So please no one get worked up over this category.
While it is true that I have not really completely lost touch with comics (thanks to comic company review copies my site gets and occasional visits to international comic shops), I still miss going to get comics every Wednesday and devouring them step by step. I even miss writing reviews of the comics (although I still do this from time to time). And I really miss Friday nights at Brandon's, talking comics and drinking beer on camera for our tens of viewers to witness. I miss your musk Brandon! When this is all said and done I think we should get an apartment together.
Things I Don't Really Miss Surprisingly: New Movies, Music, etc.
Why?: I saw someone tweeting about the awesome of the new Beastie Boys album and I had a quick thought pop in my head. Who cares if I listen to this new music or see new movies now or when I get back? They won't be any different in July as they are now...so what is the big deal? I can just catch them then. Sure, the same goes for comics, but for some reason it genuinely feels like I am missing out on something when I am out of touch with them. Maybe because I am actually part of a community that talks about them all of the time.
Weirdest Phenomenon: Losing Where I Am
Sometimes I will be reading a book or the internet and I will completely forget where I am. I will be completely zoned out. Then I will look up and realize I am entirely surrounded by Japanese people and get really confused. It's a very jarring experience.1`1111 1`
First Thing I Am Going To Do Upon My Return: Middle Way Breakfast Burrito...and You Are All Invited
Saturday, May 14, 2011
London Calling
A delay again! Sorry everyone! I've arrived in London and ended up not blogging at all, even though I have access to an awesome computer all of the time for the first time in months. But I owe you a Japan wrap-up as well as a few more "At the Half" posts. So look for those soon...probably.
Okay, definitely. I will be writing those over the next couple of days.
But I wanted to talk a little bit about London before I get into those because, simply put, London is awesome. Or somehow more awesome than it was before - which was already pretty great.
As you may or may not know, I visited London and surrounding areas in 2009. When I did that, I stayed with my friend Ryan's dad and step-mom Mike and Debra and had a fantastic time doing so. I got to know London, I caught a play, I visited Bath, Dover, Stonehenge, Canterbury and other things. I did a lot. It was a great time.
Now I am back, and this time for a completely undetermined period of time. I know that my next step is heading to Europe proper, but I have had a very difficult time deciding when to do so. I personally blame Mike and Debra as they have made it so nice to stay here that I haven't wanted to leave! I am on my sixth day here, and every day has been getting up, hanging out with Debra and her parents, eating breakfast, heading into London, enjoying the city and the sights, and often catching absolutely fantastic experiences that I couldn't get anywhere else. Granted, it isn't all perfect (the walk home at night terrifies me - seriously), but it has been a marvelous time so far.
I think a lot of that stems from the fact that this is the first time I've really felt home on my whole trip. Previously, the most time I spent consecutively in one place was 4 days, but here I can just enjoy and relax and feel like I am completely comfortable. It's really nice to have that. Incredibly enough, yesterday I spent reading, doing laundry, helping clean the house, reading newspapers in a nearby cafe, and genuinely being a good for nothing lazy guy. And it was marvelous. Then dinner guests came over and we enjoyed a delicious dinner and it was pretty much perfect. Nothing to complain about at all (unless you think spending my day doing nothing but lazing is a bad thing).
As I said though, there have been some extraordinary experiences as well, and I want to highlight those.
- THEATER!
Interestingly enough, I have never been to a play anywhere besides London. Last time I was here I saw a play starring James McAvoy called Three Days of Rain that was very enjoyable. This time I've upped the ante considerably.
First off, I caught a matinee of In the Forest, Dark and Deep, a 2 person play starring Matthew Fox (Dr. Jack Shepherd people!) and Olivia Williams (Miss Cross from Rushmore) and written/directed my Neil LaBute. It came recommended by Debra, and it was a dark and entertaining play highlighted by a fantastic performance from Fox. Granted, he was inherently hilarious because he was a redneck with a disgusting beard (something I know a lot about), but his performance was searing and dangerously funny (it makes sense). I very much enjoyed it, and it was my second experience with the more intimate plays the West End has to offer people.
The second play I saw was absolutely wonderful. It is a bit of a phenomenon in the West End, and it is a World War I play called War Horse. It's about a boy and his best friend - a horse named Joey - who is recruited for the cavalry for the Brits (the horse, not the boy), and their eventual quest to reunite with one another. The horses in the play are handled by what can only be called puppeteers but that word truly does it no justice - these horses are alive thanks to the actions of these handlers It's stunning to watch, and the story itself is beautiful and haunting (I was welling up tears like none other at the end). Throw in a golden voiced man who helps transition scene to scene and you have a play that will likely stick with me forever. I also love the fact that I lucked out and got the second-to-last ticket that just happened to be right on stage essentially. It was incredible (also, War Horse US was just nominated for the Best Play Tony - it better win!).
- SUFJAN STEVENS!
Sufjan Stevens, the multi-instrumentalist musician extraordinaire and one of my favorites, was visiting ol' London Town for 2 nights of shows in the prestigious Royal Festival Hall (the glorious hall that the London Symphony Orchestra performs). I...was not going, sadly. It was sold out both nights and I was already seeing him in Barcelona for Primavera Sound, so no Sufjan for me. That evening, I was wandering the South Bank of London, checking out the Tate Modern museum, the Globe Theater (you know, Shakespeare's theater), and various other things on a beautiful May day in London. As I walked by the hipster heavy area that was the Royal Festival Hall (this was like a beard and cardigan convention - I think these folk need some sort of support group), I decided, why the hell not - why don't I go find out if there is magically an extra ticket or two?
I walk in, and it looks like there is no hope. Bespectacled literati and happy faced hipsters roamed these halls, gleefully talking about how they were excited for the opener but how they preferred Sufjan pre BQE (or so I can only assume they were talking about this, aren't these the things that hipsters speak of?). Sheepishly, I walk up to the line and wait my turn. I'm zoned out looking at the reflection of my Benny's Taco Wagon shirt wearing self ahead of me as a staff member frantically tries to get my attention. I scurry over and bow my head.
Me: Are there any tickets left for Sufjan tonight? (Then a blur of "I know it is sold out" based lines escape from my mouth as the vendor looks taken aback by my verbosity)
Ticket Vendor: Umm...yeah. Actually, the guy right before you just returned two tickets. They are up near the front and on the aisle. Do you want the one on the aisle?
Me (completely bewildered but also thinking "holy crap, this means I have to walk back in the dark!"): Yes I would like that please give me the ticket now please please please.
Ticket Vendor: Ooookay. That would be 24 pounds 50.
Of course, knowing me, I spaz out and lose the ticket as I stalk the halls looking like a kid on Christmas morning assuredly (NINTENDO 64!!!!), and then feel my heart sink into my feet when the realization hits about 10 or so minutes later.
Believe it or not, I found it on the ground, face up near a staircase stating "Sufjan Stevens - Admit One."
Thank god.
The show itself was okay. Only the best show I have ever seen.
Here's the set-list:
Seven Swans
Too Much
Age of Adz
Heirloom
All For Myself
I Walked
Now That I'm Older
Get Real
Vesuvius
Enchanting Ghost
I Want To Be Well
Futile Devices
Impossible Soul
Encore:
Concerning the UFO Sighting Near Highland, Illinois
John Wayne Gacy, Jr.
Chicago
The opener DM Stith was very good - I have to note that - but afterwards, when Sufjan came out playing his folk neo-classic Seven Swans wearing angels wings and the entire band glowing in the dark with their day glo suits on, you knew it was going to be a special evening. Every song was superbly performed, Sufjan's banter was pantheon quality (he spoke for 15 minutes about his craft and every person in the audience was hanging on his very words as he dryly made fun of himself and enlightened us at the same time), the spectacle was unforgettable (best light show I have ever seen, and that is with The Flaming Lips' UFO show and Ghostland Observatory under my belt), and the feeling in the air was...inspirational.
That's really all I can say about it. It made me feel better than any concert I have ever seen. I had chills running up and down my spine, I was euphoric, I was emotionally destroyed by some of his soulful performances...it was incredible. I honestly didn't know live music could surprise me any more, but this was more than that. It was an experience, and one that was completely saturated with positivity and hope for 2 and a half hours.
It was all captured in the main set closer Impossible Soul. If you know the song, you know it is a 25 minute stunner that finishes his newest album The Age of Adz. You also know it switches styles effortlessly, beginning with soulful electro, turning into a dance number later, and finishing out with a sweet folk close. About 10 minutes in, the most organically wonderful thing happened I have ever seen in a show, and it was because of the power of Sufjan.
Throughout the whole show, Sufjan encouraged fans to get up and dance. He said dance is the most pure language in the world and he wants us to share...but no one budged (although dancing in our seats was very common). Then, during Impossible Soul, one well-dressed man gets up and starts dancing in his seat. Then the floodgates opened. Then three more people were dancing. Then five more. Then people (including myself) ran down to the stage and started dancing. What went on from there was us helping sing the next 10 minutes, Sufjan and his two back-up singers dancing at the front of the stage, confetti flying, and literally everyone in the room gleefully singing "Boy, we can do much more together it's not so impossible/It's not so impossible" and any number of other lines from the song.
It was pure bliss. It was cathartic. It was monumental.
When the song closed, for the first time in my life I didn't want an artist to perform an encore. It was too perfect. But when Sufjan came out and performed two beautiful songs from his most popular album Illinois solo and closed with a life-affirming full band performance of Chicago (as massive balloons fell from the ceiling and the band and audience danced), I forgot that desire and gave into the good times that were being had.
As I wrote all of that, I thought of the performance and I just grinned and felt a buzz on my skin. This was the best performance I've ever seen. As he left the stage, Sufjan shook everyone's hands in the front row (sadly not mine) and departed, leaving the lot of us stunned and repeating to each other lines like "that was the best gig I have ever been to." It was universal - only the soulless could not appreciate this wonder.
I beg of you, if you ever get the chance, go see Sufjan Stevens live. The guy is a master of his craft, and one hell of a performer too. I can't imagine you'll regret it.
I know I don't.
Oh yeah, and London is totally great, right?
Music of the Day: Sufjan Stevens. Obviously.
Okay, definitely. I will be writing those over the next couple of days.
But I wanted to talk a little bit about London before I get into those because, simply put, London is awesome. Or somehow more awesome than it was before - which was already pretty great.
As you may or may not know, I visited London and surrounding areas in 2009. When I did that, I stayed with my friend Ryan's dad and step-mom Mike and Debra and had a fantastic time doing so. I got to know London, I caught a play, I visited Bath, Dover, Stonehenge, Canterbury and other things. I did a lot. It was a great time.
Now I am back, and this time for a completely undetermined period of time. I know that my next step is heading to Europe proper, but I have had a very difficult time deciding when to do so. I personally blame Mike and Debra as they have made it so nice to stay here that I haven't wanted to leave! I am on my sixth day here, and every day has been getting up, hanging out with Debra and her parents, eating breakfast, heading into London, enjoying the city and the sights, and often catching absolutely fantastic experiences that I couldn't get anywhere else. Granted, it isn't all perfect (the walk home at night terrifies me - seriously), but it has been a marvelous time so far.
I think a lot of that stems from the fact that this is the first time I've really felt home on my whole trip. Previously, the most time I spent consecutively in one place was 4 days, but here I can just enjoy and relax and feel like I am completely comfortable. It's really nice to have that. Incredibly enough, yesterday I spent reading, doing laundry, helping clean the house, reading newspapers in a nearby cafe, and genuinely being a good for nothing lazy guy. And it was marvelous. Then dinner guests came over and we enjoyed a delicious dinner and it was pretty much perfect. Nothing to complain about at all (unless you think spending my day doing nothing but lazing is a bad thing).
As I said though, there have been some extraordinary experiences as well, and I want to highlight those.
- THEATER!
Interestingly enough, I have never been to a play anywhere besides London. Last time I was here I saw a play starring James McAvoy called Three Days of Rain that was very enjoyable. This time I've upped the ante considerably.
First off, I caught a matinee of In the Forest, Dark and Deep, a 2 person play starring Matthew Fox (Dr. Jack Shepherd people!) and Olivia Williams (Miss Cross from Rushmore) and written/directed my Neil LaBute. It came recommended by Debra, and it was a dark and entertaining play highlighted by a fantastic performance from Fox. Granted, he was inherently hilarious because he was a redneck with a disgusting beard (something I know a lot about), but his performance was searing and dangerously funny (it makes sense). I very much enjoyed it, and it was my second experience with the more intimate plays the West End has to offer people.
The second play I saw was absolutely wonderful. It is a bit of a phenomenon in the West End, and it is a World War I play called War Horse. It's about a boy and his best friend - a horse named Joey - who is recruited for the cavalry for the Brits (the horse, not the boy), and their eventual quest to reunite with one another. The horses in the play are handled by what can only be called puppeteers but that word truly does it no justice - these horses are alive thanks to the actions of these handlers It's stunning to watch, and the story itself is beautiful and haunting (I was welling up tears like none other at the end). Throw in a golden voiced man who helps transition scene to scene and you have a play that will likely stick with me forever. I also love the fact that I lucked out and got the second-to-last ticket that just happened to be right on stage essentially. It was incredible (also, War Horse US was just nominated for the Best Play Tony - it better win!).
- SUFJAN STEVENS!
Sufjan Stevens, the multi-instrumentalist musician extraordinaire and one of my favorites, was visiting ol' London Town for 2 nights of shows in the prestigious Royal Festival Hall (the glorious hall that the London Symphony Orchestra performs). I...was not going, sadly. It was sold out both nights and I was already seeing him in Barcelona for Primavera Sound, so no Sufjan for me. That evening, I was wandering the South Bank of London, checking out the Tate Modern museum, the Globe Theater (you know, Shakespeare's theater), and various other things on a beautiful May day in London. As I walked by the hipster heavy area that was the Royal Festival Hall (this was like a beard and cardigan convention - I think these folk need some sort of support group), I decided, why the hell not - why don't I go find out if there is magically an extra ticket or two?
I walk in, and it looks like there is no hope. Bespectacled literati and happy faced hipsters roamed these halls, gleefully talking about how they were excited for the opener but how they preferred Sufjan pre BQE (or so I can only assume they were talking about this, aren't these the things that hipsters speak of?). Sheepishly, I walk up to the line and wait my turn. I'm zoned out looking at the reflection of my Benny's Taco Wagon shirt wearing self ahead of me as a staff member frantically tries to get my attention. I scurry over and bow my head.
Me: Are there any tickets left for Sufjan tonight? (Then a blur of "I know it is sold out" based lines escape from my mouth as the vendor looks taken aback by my verbosity)
Ticket Vendor: Umm...yeah. Actually, the guy right before you just returned two tickets. They are up near the front and on the aisle. Do you want the one on the aisle?
Me (completely bewildered but also thinking "holy crap, this means I have to walk back in the dark!"): Yes I would like that please give me the ticket now please please please.
Ticket Vendor: Ooookay. That would be 24 pounds 50.
Of course, knowing me, I spaz out and lose the ticket as I stalk the halls looking like a kid on Christmas morning assuredly (NINTENDO 64!!!!), and then feel my heart sink into my feet when the realization hits about 10 or so minutes later.
Believe it or not, I found it on the ground, face up near a staircase stating "Sufjan Stevens - Admit One."
Thank god.
The show itself was okay. Only the best show I have ever seen.
Here's the set-list:
Seven Swans
Too Much
Age of Adz
Heirloom
All For Myself
I Walked
Now That I'm Older
Get Real
Vesuvius
Enchanting Ghost
I Want To Be Well
Futile Devices
Impossible Soul
Encore:
Concerning the UFO Sighting Near Highland, Illinois
John Wayne Gacy, Jr.
Chicago
The opener DM Stith was very good - I have to note that - but afterwards, when Sufjan came out playing his folk neo-classic Seven Swans wearing angels wings and the entire band glowing in the dark with their day glo suits on, you knew it was going to be a special evening. Every song was superbly performed, Sufjan's banter was pantheon quality (he spoke for 15 minutes about his craft and every person in the audience was hanging on his very words as he dryly made fun of himself and enlightened us at the same time), the spectacle was unforgettable (best light show I have ever seen, and that is with The Flaming Lips' UFO show and Ghostland Observatory under my belt), and the feeling in the air was...inspirational.
That's really all I can say about it. It made me feel better than any concert I have ever seen. I had chills running up and down my spine, I was euphoric, I was emotionally destroyed by some of his soulful performances...it was incredible. I honestly didn't know live music could surprise me any more, but this was more than that. It was an experience, and one that was completely saturated with positivity and hope for 2 and a half hours.It was all captured in the main set closer Impossible Soul. If you know the song, you know it is a 25 minute stunner that finishes his newest album The Age of Adz. You also know it switches styles effortlessly, beginning with soulful electro, turning into a dance number later, and finishing out with a sweet folk close. About 10 minutes in, the most organically wonderful thing happened I have ever seen in a show, and it was because of the power of Sufjan.
Throughout the whole show, Sufjan encouraged fans to get up and dance. He said dance is the most pure language in the world and he wants us to share...but no one budged (although dancing in our seats was very common). Then, during Impossible Soul, one well-dressed man gets up and starts dancing in his seat. Then the floodgates opened. Then three more people were dancing. Then five more. Then people (including myself) ran down to the stage and started dancing. What went on from there was us helping sing the next 10 minutes, Sufjan and his two back-up singers dancing at the front of the stage, confetti flying, and literally everyone in the room gleefully singing "Boy, we can do much more together it's not so impossible/It's not so impossible" and any number of other lines from the song.
It was pure bliss. It was cathartic. It was monumental.
When the song closed, for the first time in my life I didn't want an artist to perform an encore. It was too perfect. But when Sufjan came out and performed two beautiful songs from his most popular album Illinois solo and closed with a life-affirming full band performance of Chicago (as massive balloons fell from the ceiling and the band and audience danced), I forgot that desire and gave into the good times that were being had.
As I wrote all of that, I thought of the performance and I just grinned and felt a buzz on my skin. This was the best performance I've ever seen. As he left the stage, Sufjan shook everyone's hands in the front row (sadly not mine) and departed, leaving the lot of us stunned and repeating to each other lines like "that was the best gig I have ever been to." It was universal - only the soulless could not appreciate this wonder.
I beg of you, if you ever get the chance, go see Sufjan Stevens live. The guy is a master of his craft, and one hell of a performer too. I can't imagine you'll regret it.
I know I don't.
Oh yeah, and London is totally great, right?
Music of the Day: Sufjan Stevens. Obviously.
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Around the World Trip At The Half: The Airlines
My trip has been one that has required a lot of flights. In total I have taken 19 flights to date, both of the international and the domestic variety. I've flown budget airlines, boutique airlines, major airlines, good airlines, bad airlines, and the just plain weird airlines, but I would say on average my flights have been excellent. To the aspiring travelers, I figured I would share my take on these airlines so you get the same enjoyment I have out of them...or in some cases so you can avoid the torture.
Best of the Best (International): Emirates, Singapore Airlines, Air New Zealand, Malaysia Airlines
I will tackle each individually because they all deserve that.
Emirates: With a gun to my head, I would absolutely say this was the best as well as the best value. I flew them going from Christchurch to Sydney for about $100 American, which at 3.5 hours is a fairly comparable flight to the Alaska Airlines flight from Anchorage to Seattle which is a good bit more expensive ($200 or so more). But they cut no corners - spacious seats with leg room galore, beautiful screens on the seats to view their expansive movie library, delicious and free food service (yes I would like poached salmon served with an incredible rice side!), and excellent assistance from the flight staff. Amazing deal.
Singapore Airlines: Huge screens on the TV's with massive film options, incredibly comfy seats, maybe the friendliest service yet, tasty food, HUGE drink lists with only classy options (free cocktails - and legit ones too!), guest bags with eye covers, sleep socks and ear plugs, and extremely timely boarding and flights? Singapore Airlines were the surprise of all, as they were across the board great with no expectations preceding them. Well done.
Air New Zealand: Major bonus points go their way due to the fact they have the most personality of any airline (their passenger safety videos have to be seen to be believed), they also provide quality seating, food, drink and service. Already known as a great, they earned that reputation.
Malaysia Airlines: This was the airline I felt sketchiest about, yet they provided similar quality everything to the other three during the section that easily could have been the most dodgy. They went above and beyond, and I enjoyed the heck out of my experience.
Best of the Best (Domestic): Bangkok Airways
Now this is how you do domestic flights! Wonderful multilingual staff, great food, tons of leg room and low rates, traveling within Thailand was a dream thanks to them. Not only that, but both Chiang Mai and Koh Samui had lounges for all passengers (not just MVP's or gold members or something of that sort) with free Internet, newspapers, beverages and food. Pretty much amazing, and all for boutique airline rates.
Worst of the Worst (all airlines): Thomas Cook Airlines
It is easy to say how bad this airline is as I am writing this on one of their planes. My flight to London with them is painful in many ways. First off, the tiny seat with no leg room I am in is actually slanted, so I am constantly sitting in a painful position, even with the workaround of putting magazines under my butt to balance me out. The pad is missing from one half of the back of the chair, making it so it kills my back. The staff is outrageously rude (they bomb through the aisle and routinely ram into people, pull blankets off with their carts, and altogether have the demeanor of people who are about as interested in being there as I do in being at a Nickelback concert), the food is basically slung at passengers 30 minutes before they hand out drinks, and their entertainment options are minimal and inflexible.
Sure, they are a budget airline, but that doesn't mean you have to hire crap staff on an airplane that likely belongs on a scrap heap. This is easily the worst airline I have ever been on. Epic fail. I would sooner fly Oceanic Airlines from Sydney to LA than this.
Update: THEY SELL SCRATCH CARDS ON FLIGHTS. WHERE AM I?!?!
Worst of the Worst (Budget): Tiger Airways
Insanely pushy air staff treats you like a child as you fearfully finish a text 30 minutes pre flight while on board, shoving you into a baby chair that makes your flight from Brisbane to Sydney feel interminably long. Oh yeah, and their flights are always delayed or canceled. But they are REALLY cheap, so that is neat.
Weirdest of the Weird: China Eastern Airlines
This was going to be the worst but then I was introduced to Thomas Cook Airlines. This airline was very odd though, as the airplane smelled of cigarettes, the staff (who were great) seemed genuinely fearful of either every passenger lighting up or breaking out into armed insurrection, served food that was odd and often unrecognizable, and allowed passengers to wander the cabin during take off and landing. A genuine anything goes feeling permeated this airline, as a walking talking Panda Bear or kung Fu master as flight staff would have felt par for the course.
American vs. International
Having flown on both American airlines (like Alaska or United) as well as International airlines so far this trip, the comparison comes up easily...do American airlines compare well?
The short answer is no.
While both airlines I've flown in the US to date have had great staff who rolled with the punches well, American airlines are simply so focused on being businesses that customer experience doesn't even seem to matter to them. No leg room, no amenities, charging for EVERYTHING and no entertainment options...these are all things that are opposites of the majority of those international airlines I've enjoyed, but are the reality of American airlines. Alaska Airlines in particular is putrid, charging for everything they can get you on, shoving people into shabby metal carriages that are built for speed, not comfort, and all in all being far too expensive for what you get, international airlines outclass US ones easily.
Best of the Best (International): Emirates, Singapore Airlines, Air New Zealand, Malaysia Airlines
I will tackle each individually because they all deserve that.
Emirates: With a gun to my head, I would absolutely say this was the best as well as the best value. I flew them going from Christchurch to Sydney for about $100 American, which at 3.5 hours is a fairly comparable flight to the Alaska Airlines flight from Anchorage to Seattle which is a good bit more expensive ($200 or so more). But they cut no corners - spacious seats with leg room galore, beautiful screens on the seats to view their expansive movie library, delicious and free food service (yes I would like poached salmon served with an incredible rice side!), and excellent assistance from the flight staff. Amazing deal.
Singapore Airlines: Huge screens on the TV's with massive film options, incredibly comfy seats, maybe the friendliest service yet, tasty food, HUGE drink lists with only classy options (free cocktails - and legit ones too!), guest bags with eye covers, sleep socks and ear plugs, and extremely timely boarding and flights? Singapore Airlines were the surprise of all, as they were across the board great with no expectations preceding them. Well done.
Air New Zealand: Major bonus points go their way due to the fact they have the most personality of any airline (their passenger safety videos have to be seen to be believed), they also provide quality seating, food, drink and service. Already known as a great, they earned that reputation.
Malaysia Airlines: This was the airline I felt sketchiest about, yet they provided similar quality everything to the other three during the section that easily could have been the most dodgy. They went above and beyond, and I enjoyed the heck out of my experience.
Best of the Best (Domestic): Bangkok Airways
Now this is how you do domestic flights! Wonderful multilingual staff, great food, tons of leg room and low rates, traveling within Thailand was a dream thanks to them. Not only that, but both Chiang Mai and Koh Samui had lounges for all passengers (not just MVP's or gold members or something of that sort) with free Internet, newspapers, beverages and food. Pretty much amazing, and all for boutique airline rates.
Worst of the Worst (all airlines): Thomas Cook Airlines
It is easy to say how bad this airline is as I am writing this on one of their planes. My flight to London with them is painful in many ways. First off, the tiny seat with no leg room I am in is actually slanted, so I am constantly sitting in a painful position, even with the workaround of putting magazines under my butt to balance me out. The pad is missing from one half of the back of the chair, making it so it kills my back. The staff is outrageously rude (they bomb through the aisle and routinely ram into people, pull blankets off with their carts, and altogether have the demeanor of people who are about as interested in being there as I do in being at a Nickelback concert), the food is basically slung at passengers 30 minutes before they hand out drinks, and their entertainment options are minimal and inflexible.
Sure, they are a budget airline, but that doesn't mean you have to hire crap staff on an airplane that likely belongs on a scrap heap. This is easily the worst airline I have ever been on. Epic fail. I would sooner fly Oceanic Airlines from Sydney to LA than this.
Update: THEY SELL SCRATCH CARDS ON FLIGHTS. WHERE AM I?!?!
Worst of the Worst (Budget): Tiger Airways
Insanely pushy air staff treats you like a child as you fearfully finish a text 30 minutes pre flight while on board, shoving you into a baby chair that makes your flight from Brisbane to Sydney feel interminably long. Oh yeah, and their flights are always delayed or canceled. But they are REALLY cheap, so that is neat.
Weirdest of the Weird: China Eastern Airlines
This was going to be the worst but then I was introduced to Thomas Cook Airlines. This airline was very odd though, as the airplane smelled of cigarettes, the staff (who were great) seemed genuinely fearful of either every passenger lighting up or breaking out into armed insurrection, served food that was odd and often unrecognizable, and allowed passengers to wander the cabin during take off and landing. A genuine anything goes feeling permeated this airline, as a walking talking Panda Bear or kung Fu master as flight staff would have felt par for the course.
American vs. International
Having flown on both American airlines (like Alaska or United) as well as International airlines so far this trip, the comparison comes up easily...do American airlines compare well?
The short answer is no.
While both airlines I've flown in the US to date have had great staff who rolled with the punches well, American airlines are simply so focused on being businesses that customer experience doesn't even seem to matter to them. No leg room, no amenities, charging for EVERYTHING and no entertainment options...these are all things that are opposites of the majority of those international airlines I've enjoyed, but are the reality of American airlines. Alaska Airlines in particular is putrid, charging for everything they can get you on, shoving people into shabby metal carriages that are built for speed, not comfort, and all in all being far too expensive for what you get, international airlines outclass US ones easily.
Monday, May 2, 2011
The State We're In
My trip has been one that has been rife with shocking world events changing the scope of my existence in each country I have been. Whether it's been the Christchurch earthquake, the floods and cyclones in Australia, sparring between Thailand and Cambodia, the massive earthquake in Japan, or, most recently, the assassination of Osama bin Laden and its effect on European Muslim population, a lot of things entirely out of my control have changed the situation in my time within each stop.
Or at least, so says the media.
Let's use Japan as the test case here. Based strictly off the media and US travel advisories, my expectations would have been a country in tatters, with people moping about and everyone paranoid that the next moment could be the one when the next major earthquake hits. Based off the empty hostels I stayed in and the fact that I was interviewed by a Tokyo television station about the massive drop in foreigners visiting, it appears that these beliefs are widespread amongst the travelers of the world.
Yet, reality is completely unlike the one that is portrayed by news channels more interested in sensationalizing the news for the purpose of ratings and/or hits, as well as the one depicted by the understandably cautious US government.
Before I made my decision to come to Japan, I did a ton of research. I didn't just trust news outlets - I went to the ground. These days, with your everyday bloggers struggling to make a niche, sometimes you can't even trust the smaller news outlets, so I went with the very small niche. I went to smaller forums, I asked people I knew in Tokyo, and perhaps most importantly, I asked CouchSurfing.org and their Tokyo and Japan communities.
In that process, I found out that the "rolling blackouts" and "food shortages" were rare to non-existent in Tokyo and further south, that trains were in fact running in a timely fashion, and that the status was most definitely quo. Not only that, but I read articles from various sources (which I sadly cannot find) that were underreported and stated things like:
- A British nuclear expert shared that Chernobyl's historically large radius of effect was 30 km. Tokyo is 240 km away.
- Even at the heightened state of radiation, it would take 2 years of continuous dosage at Tokyo levels to affect you negatively.
- Radiation levels on average are higher in China even after the nuclear problems.
As for the earthquakes themselves, I came to realize that they were going to be something I would have to deal with. Even the ground level sources I came across readily admitted that they were coming regularly. Given that I'm from Alaska, a few earthquakes were not enough to deter me.
Throw in the fact that the US government only suggested not to go to Tokyo, and that neighboring cities like Hiroshima, Kyoto, Osaka and others were good to go, and I said screw it, let's do this.
And do this I did, and I found that...not a whole lot had changed. People were happy. Trains were on time. Shelves were stocked with food. There were no blackouts. Basically, the only thing that had changed is that the amount of foreign visitors had plummeted - I spoke to one front desk employee at a hostel and they told me that they were hit by a 90% cancellation rate.
But the things that people would be concerned about just weren't there. People were fearful for no reason. Even the things that were most likely real - the earthquakes and irradiated food/water - ended up being non-factors for simple reasons.
Earthquakes: They happened. Sometimes often - I felt probably ten in one night - and sometimes prolific - I was in a 6.0 that lasted for about a minute - but they are earthquakes. I've grown quite accustomed to them over the years, and they weren't anything to stress about.
The Food: The area with the nuclear troubles also happens to be the source of 25% of the produce and a good amount of the seafood for the country. They came up with a simple but elegant solution to the problem. DO NOT SELL IT! Shocking, right? Going to a restaurant and finding out that a certain type of sushi or bit of food was nixed because of potential risks was an uncommon but occasional occurrence. If you happened to be the type of person more fearful than me, here is an easy solution: don't eat seafood. There are plenty of other options.
The Water: They invented something. It's called bottled water. Buy it. Drink it. Go forth and prosper.
To me, those people who passed on traveling here are, like the US government, understandably cautious. If you're fearful of these problems enough that it would negatively affect your trip, don't come. However, I went for it and ever so glad I did. Not only did I find out that this is a spectacular country, but I found out just how warm and welcoming and understanding the Japanese people are. Especially now with the way tourism has plummeted, I've actually had people come up and thank me - thank me - for visiting their country.
According to the news, I should likely be on my death bed with some sort of radiation based disease, surrounded by wildly depressed doctors and being served food that should only worsen my condition.
Instead, I am greeted with open arms, eating better than I have ever eaten in my entire life, sleeping in the world's best hostels, and generally having the time of my life.
With that in mind, I approach my upcoming in time in Europe without trepidation or reservations, but with excitement and happiness. Some have suggested I mask my identity as an American for fear of retribution from the Muslim community. As a traveler, I quickly realized that the old adage "treat people how you'd like to be treated" is one of great import.
While Americans may get mistreated on occasion in foreign countries, I can attest to this fact personally that it is quite often because American travelers frequently act like boorish jerks who are ethnocentric and overly expectant of these places to cater to their very specific needs. The answer to me is to assimilate quickly, act with understanding and openness to new things, and to just be friendly and make an effort to bridge the gap between my preferred customs and theirs.
When I did that in 2009 in Europe, I found myself blending in instead of standing out. That's not to say I will travel with no care in the world and not protect myself from potential harm. But it is to say that I will likely find myself less likely to need to, no matter what the media or travel advisories state.
Or at least, so says the media.
Let's use Japan as the test case here. Based strictly off the media and US travel advisories, my expectations would have been a country in tatters, with people moping about and everyone paranoid that the next moment could be the one when the next major earthquake hits. Based off the empty hostels I stayed in and the fact that I was interviewed by a Tokyo television station about the massive drop in foreigners visiting, it appears that these beliefs are widespread amongst the travelers of the world.
Yet, reality is completely unlike the one that is portrayed by news channels more interested in sensationalizing the news for the purpose of ratings and/or hits, as well as the one depicted by the understandably cautious US government.
Before I made my decision to come to Japan, I did a ton of research. I didn't just trust news outlets - I went to the ground. These days, with your everyday bloggers struggling to make a niche, sometimes you can't even trust the smaller news outlets, so I went with the very small niche. I went to smaller forums, I asked people I knew in Tokyo, and perhaps most importantly, I asked CouchSurfing.org and their Tokyo and Japan communities.
In that process, I found out that the "rolling blackouts" and "food shortages" were rare to non-existent in Tokyo and further south, that trains were in fact running in a timely fashion, and that the status was most definitely quo. Not only that, but I read articles from various sources (which I sadly cannot find) that were underreported and stated things like:
- A British nuclear expert shared that Chernobyl's historically large radius of effect was 30 km. Tokyo is 240 km away.
- Even at the heightened state of radiation, it would take 2 years of continuous dosage at Tokyo levels to affect you negatively.
- Radiation levels on average are higher in China even after the nuclear problems.
As for the earthquakes themselves, I came to realize that they were going to be something I would have to deal with. Even the ground level sources I came across readily admitted that they were coming regularly. Given that I'm from Alaska, a few earthquakes were not enough to deter me.
Throw in the fact that the US government only suggested not to go to Tokyo, and that neighboring cities like Hiroshima, Kyoto, Osaka and others were good to go, and I said screw it, let's do this.
And do this I did, and I found that...not a whole lot had changed. People were happy. Trains were on time. Shelves were stocked with food. There were no blackouts. Basically, the only thing that had changed is that the amount of foreign visitors had plummeted - I spoke to one front desk employee at a hostel and they told me that they were hit by a 90% cancellation rate.
But the things that people would be concerned about just weren't there. People were fearful for no reason. Even the things that were most likely real - the earthquakes and irradiated food/water - ended up being non-factors for simple reasons.
Earthquakes: They happened. Sometimes often - I felt probably ten in one night - and sometimes prolific - I was in a 6.0 that lasted for about a minute - but they are earthquakes. I've grown quite accustomed to them over the years, and they weren't anything to stress about.
The Food: The area with the nuclear troubles also happens to be the source of 25% of the produce and a good amount of the seafood for the country. They came up with a simple but elegant solution to the problem. DO NOT SELL IT! Shocking, right? Going to a restaurant and finding out that a certain type of sushi or bit of food was nixed because of potential risks was an uncommon but occasional occurrence. If you happened to be the type of person more fearful than me, here is an easy solution: don't eat seafood. There are plenty of other options.
The Water: They invented something. It's called bottled water. Buy it. Drink it. Go forth and prosper.
To me, those people who passed on traveling here are, like the US government, understandably cautious. If you're fearful of these problems enough that it would negatively affect your trip, don't come. However, I went for it and ever so glad I did. Not only did I find out that this is a spectacular country, but I found out just how warm and welcoming and understanding the Japanese people are. Especially now with the way tourism has plummeted, I've actually had people come up and thank me - thank me - for visiting their country.
According to the news, I should likely be on my death bed with some sort of radiation based disease, surrounded by wildly depressed doctors and being served food that should only worsen my condition.
Instead, I am greeted with open arms, eating better than I have ever eaten in my entire life, sleeping in the world's best hostels, and generally having the time of my life.
With that in mind, I approach my upcoming in time in Europe without trepidation or reservations, but with excitement and happiness. Some have suggested I mask my identity as an American for fear of retribution from the Muslim community. As a traveler, I quickly realized that the old adage "treat people how you'd like to be treated" is one of great import.
While Americans may get mistreated on occasion in foreign countries, I can attest to this fact personally that it is quite often because American travelers frequently act like boorish jerks who are ethnocentric and overly expectant of these places to cater to their very specific needs. The answer to me is to assimilate quickly, act with understanding and openness to new things, and to just be friendly and make an effort to bridge the gap between my preferred customs and theirs.
When I did that in 2009 in Europe, I found myself blending in instead of standing out. That's not to say I will travel with no care in the world and not protect myself from potential harm. But it is to say that I will likely find myself less likely to need to, no matter what the media or travel advisories state.
Only the Lonely
Note: Another two article day. Check the other one below...if you DARE!
This conversation recently happened between myself and two Tokyo hostel roommates from Singapore (Jasper and...well, Not Jasper).
Jasper: Are you traveling by yourself?
Me: Yeah.
Not Jasper: Don't you get lonely?
Me: Not really. Sometimes I guess, but not really.
I have quickly realized during my travels that solo traveling is a bit of a rarity. I had a discussion with someone about it, as they suggested that people my age and below cannot be alone. It is just the way we are built. I'm not sure if it is because of the internet (likely) and the increasingly small world we live in, but for some reason everyone needs a lifeline while traveling, and they need that person to be with them at all times.
It isn't just traveling though. I know people who have difficulty eating by themselves, people who won't go to movies by themselves, any number of things.
I can tell you for a fact that I would barely do anything if I didn't do things by myself.
Doing things by myself just isn't a problem really. Whether it is scarfing a breakfast burrito at Middle Way Cafe, catching "Moon" at the artist formerly known as Fireweed Theaters or traveling the world, it just doesn't seem that big of a deal to be by myself.
Jasper and Not Jasper on the other hand seemed completely bewildered by this, as have many other people I've met (always in groups). I've met paired travelers, three packs, four packs, and even a group of seven dudes in Thailand (who were there to partake in the local offerings). Every one of them gives me the type of look your dog gives you when you do something strange. A slight turn of the head and a quizzical face.
"This human is strange."
I met a girl in Wanaka, New Zealand who was absolutely beside herself because she was by herself. She was originally from (symmetry alert!) Singapore and was traveling in NZ for the first time by herself. Previously she had went with a boyfriend, but now she was a shell of a human being thanks to her solitude. I met her through another solo traveler named Cathia (38!) who had to take care of her like she was a baby bird (I can neither confirm nor deny that Cathia had to feed her).
To me, out of all of the things I do by myself, traveling is the most necessary to be solo. Obviously meals, coffees and movies are going to be more enjoyable as a community experience.
However, traveling by yourself means you have all kinds of flexibility. Let's try this with a series of questions and the answers that you get if you are by yourself or if you are with another person.
What time to wake up?
By myself: Whenever I feel like it! The world is my oyster!
Buddy system: "Hey, let's get an early start because I heard this place was awesome and we can only get there if we get there at 1:00 AM. What's that? It's 3 AM. WE GOTTA GO!"
What to do today?
By myself: Whatever I feel like! I'm not going to wear pants and ride a scooter around!
Buddy system: Prostitutes, based off the aforementioned British septuplets I met in Thailand.
What should we eat?
By myself: Based off the meal I had last night with old friend Amanda Dale, I think it is safe to say I will eat anything.
Buddy system: "I won't eat seafood. Or green things. Or things that have a face. Actually, I'm a level five vegan. I won't eat anything that casts a shadow."
You get the point. In the world of the solo traveler, there are no restrictions. In one where you have to share your time, you are constrained by the mere fact you have to please someone else.
To which readers will likely think "well, that sounds kind of lonely. What's the point of experiences if they can't be shared?"
Endearing sentiments, assuredly. But here is the thing - there is no reason I can't share experiences with others. Why can't I hang out for a period of time with people when I feel super social (see: Paris 2009 with my Canadian friends)? I can hang out with people. I can hang out with myself. I can do both. I can do whatever! I've discovered that the recipe that seems to work the best for me tends to be solo days and social nights. It makes the most sense, truthfully. Do what I want during the day, then grab a bite or drinks with others in my hostel. While that isn't the case every night, it works enough that I never really feel lonely.
Granted, Japan has been a bit on the lonely side. You know when you get interviewed by Tokyo news about the downturn in visiting foreigners (yes, this happened) that the amount of people to hang out with has dropped considerably. But even with that, I meet enough people and the experiences here are so rich I haven't really felt that bad about it. Hell, it removes any guilt I may have when I sit in my room and read comics on my iPad instead of socializing (thanks to Boom! Studios, Top shelf and Image Comics for their sweet, sweet digital review copies!).
So basically, my point is this: people are too reliant on others. You can enjoy yourself with yourself. You can enjoy yourself with others. There is no rule that being by yourself is a bad thing. It's just a different thing. Embrace it and go out and have the best time you can. And for gods sake people, don't knock it 'til you try it. Grab an Anchorage Press and eat that Avocado Melt. Find out what it feels like to pay attention fully to a gripping drama. Get out there and travel and don't worry about those happy duos you see. That could be you later. Or it could not be. Doesn't matter - it's your choice. They can't make that choice without looking like a jerk...so you're the big winner here.
To close, and to further shut down Jasper and Not Jasper, I have this later conversation that happened in our room. This is mostly because it is funny and partially because I wanted to share that their points aren't necessarily the most salient. It also involves our very gay roommate Ken.
Ken: I'm going to a party down at Tokyo Harbour.
Jasper/Not Jasper (excitedly): That sounds fun. We were going to go to Roppongi (a super sketch area of Tokyo with a lot of clubs) but maybe we can come with.
Ken: Not sure if you'd like that. It's gay night...so, that might not be fun for you guys.
Jasper/Not Jasper: Oh, okay. Thanks though.
Ten minutes later.
Not Jasper: Hey David.
Me: What's up, _____?
Not Jasper: Is it gay night in EVERY bar?
Me (bewildered but hiding it except a laugh): Somehow I doubt it. I feel like it would be pretty bad for business if every bar in Tokyo on a Saturday night was having gay night. But I could be wrong.
Jasper: That makes sense.
And yes, I was sitting in bed reading comics when this all went down. Suck it, Singapore!
I'm Here
While I wandered, something caught my eye. Apparently a Diesel store had an art gallery in it that was featuring photography and concept work for a short film Spike Jonze did called "I'm Here." Given that I think Spike Jonze is awesome (whether you're talking about his acting in Three Kings, his directing in Adaptation, his creation of the Sabotage video for the Beastie Boys, or perhaps most of all, his dancing in the Praise You video by Fatboy Slim), I had to check it out. I caught a screening of the short, and I highly recommend you checking it out. It is a very touching movie, and as someone on IMDB said, it accomplishes a better grasp of love in 30 minutes than most movies do in 2 hours.
Yeah, he went there. Check it out!
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