My trip has been one that has been rife with shocking world events changing the scope of my existence in each country I have been. Whether it's been the Christchurch earthquake, the floods and cyclones in Australia, sparring between Thailand and Cambodia, the massive earthquake in Japan, or, most recently, the assassination of Osama bin Laden and its effect on European Muslim population, a lot of things entirely out of my control have changed the situation in my time within each stop.
Or at least, so says the media.
Let's use Japan as the test case here. Based strictly off the media and US travel advisories, my expectations would have been a country in tatters, with people moping about and everyone paranoid that the next moment could be the one when the next major earthquake hits. Based off the empty hostels I stayed in and the fact that I was interviewed by a Tokyo television station about the massive drop in foreigners visiting, it appears that these beliefs are widespread amongst the travelers of the world.
Yet, reality is completely unlike the one that is portrayed by news channels more interested in sensationalizing the news for the purpose of ratings and/or hits, as well as the one depicted by the understandably cautious US government.
Before I made my decision to come to Japan, I did a ton of research. I didn't just trust news outlets - I went to the ground. These days, with your everyday bloggers struggling to make a niche, sometimes you can't even trust the smaller news outlets, so I went with the very small niche. I went to smaller forums, I asked people I knew in Tokyo, and perhaps most importantly, I asked CouchSurfing.org and their Tokyo and Japan communities.
In that process, I found out that the "rolling blackouts" and "food shortages" were rare to non-existent in Tokyo and further south, that trains were in fact running in a timely fashion, and that the status was most definitely quo. Not only that, but I read articles from various sources (which I sadly cannot find) that were underreported and stated things like:
- A British nuclear expert shared that Chernobyl's historically large radius of effect was 30 km. Tokyo is 240 km away.
- Even at the heightened state of radiation, it would take 2 years of continuous dosage at Tokyo levels to affect you negatively.
- Radiation levels on average are higher in China even after the nuclear problems.
As for the earthquakes themselves, I came to realize that they were going to be something I would have to deal with. Even the ground level sources I came across readily admitted that they were coming regularly. Given that I'm from Alaska, a few earthquakes were not enough to deter me.
Throw in the fact that the US government only suggested not to go to Tokyo, and that neighboring cities like Hiroshima, Kyoto, Osaka and others were good to go, and I said screw it, let's do this.
And do this I did, and I found that...not a whole lot had changed. People were happy. Trains were on time. Shelves were stocked with food. There were no blackouts. Basically, the only thing that had changed is that the amount of foreign visitors had plummeted - I spoke to one front desk employee at a hostel and they told me that they were hit by a 90% cancellation rate.
But the things that people would be concerned about just weren't there. People were fearful for no reason. Even the things that were most likely real - the earthquakes and irradiated food/water - ended up being non-factors for simple reasons.
Earthquakes: They happened. Sometimes often - I felt probably ten in one night - and sometimes prolific - I was in a 6.0 that lasted for about a minute - but they are earthquakes. I've grown quite accustomed to them over the years, and they weren't anything to stress about.
The Food: The area with the nuclear troubles also happens to be the source of 25% of the produce and a good amount of the seafood for the country. They came up with a simple but elegant solution to the problem. DO NOT SELL IT! Shocking, right? Going to a restaurant and finding out that a certain type of sushi or bit of food was nixed because of potential risks was an uncommon but occasional occurrence. If you happened to be the type of person more fearful than me, here is an easy solution: don't eat seafood. There are plenty of other options.
The Water: They invented something. It's called bottled water. Buy it. Drink it. Go forth and prosper.
To me, those people who passed on traveling here are, like the US government, understandably cautious. If you're fearful of these problems enough that it would negatively affect your trip, don't come. However, I went for it and ever so glad I did. Not only did I find out that this is a spectacular country, but I found out just how warm and welcoming and understanding the Japanese people are. Especially now with the way tourism has plummeted, I've actually had people come up and thank me - thank me - for visiting their country.
According to the news, I should likely be on my death bed with some sort of radiation based disease, surrounded by wildly depressed doctors and being served food that should only worsen my condition.
Instead, I am greeted with open arms, eating better than I have ever eaten in my entire life, sleeping in the world's best hostels, and generally having the time of my life.
With that in mind, I approach my upcoming in time in Europe without trepidation or reservations, but with excitement and happiness. Some have suggested I mask my identity as an American for fear of retribution from the Muslim community. As a traveler, I quickly realized that the old adage "treat people how you'd like to be treated" is one of great import.
While Americans may get mistreated on occasion in foreign countries, I can attest to this fact personally that it is quite often because American travelers frequently act like boorish jerks who are ethnocentric and overly expectant of these places to cater to their very specific needs. The answer to me is to assimilate quickly, act with understanding and openness to new things, and to just be friendly and make an effort to bridge the gap between my preferred customs and theirs.
When I did that in 2009 in Europe, I found myself blending in instead of standing out. That's not to say I will travel with no care in the world and not protect myself from potential harm. But it is to say that I will likely find myself less likely to need to, no matter what the media or travel advisories state.
Monday, May 2, 2011
Only the Lonely
Note: Another two article day. Check the other one below...if you DARE!
This conversation recently happened between myself and two Tokyo hostel roommates from Singapore (Jasper and...well, Not Jasper).
Jasper: Are you traveling by yourself?
Me: Yeah.
Not Jasper: Don't you get lonely?
Me: Not really. Sometimes I guess, but not really.
I have quickly realized during my travels that solo traveling is a bit of a rarity. I had a discussion with someone about it, as they suggested that people my age and below cannot be alone. It is just the way we are built. I'm not sure if it is because of the internet (likely) and the increasingly small world we live in, but for some reason everyone needs a lifeline while traveling, and they need that person to be with them at all times.
It isn't just traveling though. I know people who have difficulty eating by themselves, people who won't go to movies by themselves, any number of things.
I can tell you for a fact that I would barely do anything if I didn't do things by myself.
Doing things by myself just isn't a problem really. Whether it is scarfing a breakfast burrito at Middle Way Cafe, catching "Moon" at the artist formerly known as Fireweed Theaters or traveling the world, it just doesn't seem that big of a deal to be by myself.
Jasper and Not Jasper on the other hand seemed completely bewildered by this, as have many other people I've met (always in groups). I've met paired travelers, three packs, four packs, and even a group of seven dudes in Thailand (who were there to partake in the local offerings). Every one of them gives me the type of look your dog gives you when you do something strange. A slight turn of the head and a quizzical face.
"This human is strange."
I met a girl in Wanaka, New Zealand who was absolutely beside herself because she was by herself. She was originally from (symmetry alert!) Singapore and was traveling in NZ for the first time by herself. Previously she had went with a boyfriend, but now she was a shell of a human being thanks to her solitude. I met her through another solo traveler named Cathia (38!) who had to take care of her like she was a baby bird (I can neither confirm nor deny that Cathia had to feed her).
To me, out of all of the things I do by myself, traveling is the most necessary to be solo. Obviously meals, coffees and movies are going to be more enjoyable as a community experience.
However, traveling by yourself means you have all kinds of flexibility. Let's try this with a series of questions and the answers that you get if you are by yourself or if you are with another person.
What time to wake up?
By myself: Whenever I feel like it! The world is my oyster!
Buddy system: "Hey, let's get an early start because I heard this place was awesome and we can only get there if we get there at 1:00 AM. What's that? It's 3 AM. WE GOTTA GO!"
What to do today?
By myself: Whatever I feel like! I'm not going to wear pants and ride a scooter around!
Buddy system: Prostitutes, based off the aforementioned British septuplets I met in Thailand.
What should we eat?
By myself: Based off the meal I had last night with old friend Amanda Dale, I think it is safe to say I will eat anything.
Buddy system: "I won't eat seafood. Or green things. Or things that have a face. Actually, I'm a level five vegan. I won't eat anything that casts a shadow."
You get the point. In the world of the solo traveler, there are no restrictions. In one where you have to share your time, you are constrained by the mere fact you have to please someone else.
To which readers will likely think "well, that sounds kind of lonely. What's the point of experiences if they can't be shared?"
Endearing sentiments, assuredly. But here is the thing - there is no reason I can't share experiences with others. Why can't I hang out for a period of time with people when I feel super social (see: Paris 2009 with my Canadian friends)? I can hang out with people. I can hang out with myself. I can do both. I can do whatever! I've discovered that the recipe that seems to work the best for me tends to be solo days and social nights. It makes the most sense, truthfully. Do what I want during the day, then grab a bite or drinks with others in my hostel. While that isn't the case every night, it works enough that I never really feel lonely.
Granted, Japan has been a bit on the lonely side. You know when you get interviewed by Tokyo news about the downturn in visiting foreigners (yes, this happened) that the amount of people to hang out with has dropped considerably. But even with that, I meet enough people and the experiences here are so rich I haven't really felt that bad about it. Hell, it removes any guilt I may have when I sit in my room and read comics on my iPad instead of socializing (thanks to Boom! Studios, Top shelf and Image Comics for their sweet, sweet digital review copies!).
So basically, my point is this: people are too reliant on others. You can enjoy yourself with yourself. You can enjoy yourself with others. There is no rule that being by yourself is a bad thing. It's just a different thing. Embrace it and go out and have the best time you can. And for gods sake people, don't knock it 'til you try it. Grab an Anchorage Press and eat that Avocado Melt. Find out what it feels like to pay attention fully to a gripping drama. Get out there and travel and don't worry about those happy duos you see. That could be you later. Or it could not be. Doesn't matter - it's your choice. They can't make that choice without looking like a jerk...so you're the big winner here.
To close, and to further shut down Jasper and Not Jasper, I have this later conversation that happened in our room. This is mostly because it is funny and partially because I wanted to share that their points aren't necessarily the most salient. It also involves our very gay roommate Ken.
Ken: I'm going to a party down at Tokyo Harbour.
Jasper/Not Jasper (excitedly): That sounds fun. We were going to go to Roppongi (a super sketch area of Tokyo with a lot of clubs) but maybe we can come with.
Ken: Not sure if you'd like that. It's gay night...so, that might not be fun for you guys.
Jasper/Not Jasper: Oh, okay. Thanks though.
Ten minutes later.
Not Jasper: Hey David.
Me: What's up, _____?
Not Jasper: Is it gay night in EVERY bar?
Me (bewildered but hiding it except a laugh): Somehow I doubt it. I feel like it would be pretty bad for business if every bar in Tokyo on a Saturday night was having gay night. But I could be wrong.
Jasper: That makes sense.
And yes, I was sitting in bed reading comics when this all went down. Suck it, Singapore!
I'm Here
While I wandered, something caught my eye. Apparently a Diesel store had an art gallery in it that was featuring photography and concept work for a short film Spike Jonze did called "I'm Here." Given that I think Spike Jonze is awesome (whether you're talking about his acting in Three Kings, his directing in Adaptation, his creation of the Sabotage video for the Beastie Boys, or perhaps most of all, his dancing in the Praise You video by Fatboy Slim), I had to check it out. I caught a screening of the short, and I highly recommend you checking it out. It is a very touching movie, and as someone on IMDB said, it accomplishes a better grasp of love in 30 minutes than most movies do in 2 hours.
Yeah, he went there. Check it out!
Friday, April 29, 2011
Am I Glad I Took My Trip?
Before you read this post, check out the post I also made directly below this! I am doubling up, believe it or not (sorry I suck at blog!).
Recently, a couple friends (Amy and Cate to be specific) asked me a question. Am I glad that I took my trip? Well, something like that, but still, that was the general point of the question.
So...am I?
The simple answer is yes, of course I am.
I love Alaska, don't get me wrong, but there tends to be a certain amount of frustration that comes with seeing the same people that I don't want to see all of the time but do because Anchorage is tiny and doing the same things over and over. I wanted some variety. That is the spice of life, yes?
Replacing that with anything fresh would likely have resulted in an upgrade on the happy scale.
Replacing it with a dream trip around the world in which I get to see and do things I never would have otherwise while I still can enjoy it to its fullest...well, that is just the best thing ever, isn't it?
Doing what I am doing right now is something anyone in their right mind would enjoy incredibly. Sure, it has downsides. I LOVE Japan - I think it is perhaps the best place I have ever been overall - but after the earthquake the amount of travelers is down big time so it has tended to be a little on the lonely side. Australia was...well, Australia was frustrating and expensive, even with the good that came with it. Thailand was wet, dirty and filled with prostitutes (which, as I have mentioned previously, is a reason to visit for some). New Zealand was beautiful but was not the most culturally resonant place I have ever been. They are all wonderful, but just like Alaska, every place has a downside.
But the good news about their downside is it is new downside, so it is still a unique experience to me. It is still exciting. I am doing something that I will look back on for the rest of my life and think "man, I really (fill in the blank with an experience here)."
When I talked to my dad recently on Easter, he suggested to me that it seems like I have learned a lot already. I am not so sure about that - I don't feel different (said like Guy Pearce says "I don't feel drunk" in Memento), but it is hard to notice changes of that scale I think. But I would like to think I have grown in little, subtle ways that even I can't detect.
So yes, I am glad in many different ways that I took my trip. Best yet? I am glad that it is barely even half over. 2.5 more months baby! Europe is coming next!
Music of the day: Yann Tiersen's "Amelie" soundtrack
P.S. I hope to write more. I have blog ideas coming out of the wazoo, but I have a tendency to hate writing extended write-ups on my iPad. It crams my hands and is SUPER frustrating in that I make a billion typos and then it takes me a bit to correct each one. I do not like that, no I do not.
Recently, a couple friends (Amy and Cate to be specific) asked me a question. Am I glad that I took my trip? Well, something like that, but still, that was the general point of the question.
So...am I?
The simple answer is yes, of course I am.
I love Alaska, don't get me wrong, but there tends to be a certain amount of frustration that comes with seeing the same people that I don't want to see all of the time but do because Anchorage is tiny and doing the same things over and over. I wanted some variety. That is the spice of life, yes?
Replacing that with anything fresh would likely have resulted in an upgrade on the happy scale.
Replacing it with a dream trip around the world in which I get to see and do things I never would have otherwise while I still can enjoy it to its fullest...well, that is just the best thing ever, isn't it?
Doing what I am doing right now is something anyone in their right mind would enjoy incredibly. Sure, it has downsides. I LOVE Japan - I think it is perhaps the best place I have ever been overall - but after the earthquake the amount of travelers is down big time so it has tended to be a little on the lonely side. Australia was...well, Australia was frustrating and expensive, even with the good that came with it. Thailand was wet, dirty and filled with prostitutes (which, as I have mentioned previously, is a reason to visit for some). New Zealand was beautiful but was not the most culturally resonant place I have ever been. They are all wonderful, but just like Alaska, every place has a downside.
But the good news about their downside is it is new downside, so it is still a unique experience to me. It is still exciting. I am doing something that I will look back on for the rest of my life and think "man, I really (fill in the blank with an experience here)."
When I talked to my dad recently on Easter, he suggested to me that it seems like I have learned a lot already. I am not so sure about that - I don't feel different (said like Guy Pearce says "I don't feel drunk" in Memento), but it is hard to notice changes of that scale I think. But I would like to think I have grown in little, subtle ways that even I can't detect.
So yes, I am glad in many different ways that I took my trip. Best yet? I am glad that it is barely even half over. 2.5 more months baby! Europe is coming next!
Music of the day: Yann Tiersen's "Amelie" soundtrack
P.S. I hope to write more. I have blog ideas coming out of the wazoo, but I have a tendency to hate writing extended write-ups on my iPad. It crams my hands and is SUPER frustrating in that I make a billion typos and then it takes me a bit to correct each one. I do not like that, no I do not.
A Note of Loss
This trip is paying off dividends already! In my nearly 2 months gone, I have lost about 22 pounds! Yeah! I would like to thank the massive decrease in alcohol intake from my diet, diminished amounts of coffee and lots and lots of walking. I wouldn't be the same without you.
Actually, I suppose I would be. I would be the exact same! But still, more benefits that come from this trip seem to appear around every corner.
Actually, I suppose I would be. I would be the exact same! But still, more benefits that come from this trip seem to appear around every corner.
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Japan: Every Little Thing You Do is Magic
I had really mixed feelings coming into Japan. On one hand, I always had a fascination with the country - I found the blend of the latest and greatest in technology and style with the zen gardens and mystical thoughtfulness to be an alluring set up for a place to visit.
But at the same time, the March 11th earthquake loomed overhead as did the feedback from fellow traveler (and Wanaka friend) Lance who was not impressed. Well, that and I didn't really want to leave Thailand.
But leave I did, and holy crap, I am so glad I did. I freaking love Japan!
One of my worst tendencies when it comes to this blog is falling behind and then not knowing how to approach a post, but for this one I am just going to write about some of the highlights so far in a point-by-point set-up. Let's start with the surest way to my heart: my stomach.
- The Food!
Oh my god the food! I have a theory as to why it is easily the best I have had on my trip so far. Let me try and explain.
New Zealand and Australia just have mediocre food. It gets the job done (especially their eggs benedict which I miss badly), but it isn't very good.
Thailand is good, but their need to try and please tourists and every segment (it is a bit of a flaw in their set-up) of people makes it hard for them to achieve a singular greatness. It's the Royal Fork theory applied in a macro sense: quantity negates quality.
Japan though...they just focus on what they do and they try their hardest to make it as damn good as they can. I've tried to exclusively eat local favorites (except for breakfast because I cannot for the life of me figure out what they eat for breakfast - the same thing as lunch?), and in the process had AMAZING ramen (not your Costco bought crap - mine was in miso soup and mixed with pork, chicken dumplings, leeks, green onions, bean sprouts and more), soba noodles, pork cutlets with rice and Japanese curry, Takoyaki (a super Japan exclusive that is essentially a dough ball with octopus on the inside and covered with a special sauce and mayo), Okonomiyaki (basically a Japanese savory pancake, although that description does it no justice - most filling food ever) and, of course, sushi.
All amazing. All everywhere. No matter where I go the food is at least very good.
- The People!
When I had sushi on my first full day in Tokyo, it was in the Shibuya district after I gave up trying to find a spot to photograph the Plaza that is so famous (because about 800 million people cross at the same time) and just went and ate. I got a massive mixed platter that was delicious and bizarre (I ate the egg sac of some fish I think), and in the process started speaking with an Air Italia flight attendant named Jacopo and a 67 year old Japanese woman I THINK named Ryi. She was one of the first Japanese I randomly met who spoke English (perhaps the only) and it is thanks to her living in, of all places, Wisconsin for 9 months to teach Japanese.
After we all talked for some time, they both said I had to go to Meiji Jingu, a nearby temple that was supposed to be super incredible. Ryi offered to take me, so I was given a tour of this remarkable place and its nearby gardens by this fun and friendly woman (who hadn't spoken English for 20 years before that day according to her).
We managed to catch a beautiful wedding (she explained a lot of the intricacies), she translated an omikuji for me (essentially a fortune you get at temples), check out a zen garden and all in all having a marvelous time. She also taught me superstitions of the area, a little Japanese (enough to be polite), and complimented me - she told me my voice was beautiful and that I had a good heart (so of course I loved her).
It was awesome.
While everyone isn't like Ryi, everyone is nice, polite and remarkably easy to communicate with given the complete absence of English mostly.
- The Sights!
Whether you're talking beautiful temples like Senso-ji or Meiji Jingu, crazy spiritual sites like Koya-San's Oku-No-In, or simple things like the thrush of people that overwhelms you at every turn, this place has it all. It is a remarkably diverse place for entertainment. The neon lights, the temples, hell, the high quality baseball (go Tigers! Yes, I went to a fame), the art, the hilarious signs, the people (best people watching place EVER)...it makes this place a constantly changing and evolving place to experience.
- The Transportation!
I always said I wish everyone drove like me so the roads would be more efficient. If I controlled all cars, the world would be crazy efficient.
Welcome to Japan, in which everyone is in a hurry and timely TOGETHER.
Using the rail system almost exclusively, I get everywhere fast, I get to the right places, I never get lost, and it is just absurdly reliable. Plus, with my JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass) I can hop on nearly any train for free. Awesome!
One last thing: Andre 3000 once asked "what's cooler than being cool?" The answer was the "ice cold." Alright, alright, alright, I can accept that...but with an addendum. Ice cold AND bullet trains. Best mode of transportation ever!
- The Cost!
Everyone hyped Japan up as being crazy expensive, but I have to say it doesn't feel that expensive at all. Definitely less expensive than Australia. Sure costs are higher than NZ and Thailand, but everything in Japan - from the food to the lodging to the sites - have been of the highest of quality.
So that is it for now. I have to say, a week in and Japan is pretty much perfect in my book. I am so glad I came, even though I was already in one 6.0 earthquake that lasted for a good minute. Scary, but oh so worth it.
Music of the Day: Anathallo's "Floating World"
But at the same time, the March 11th earthquake loomed overhead as did the feedback from fellow traveler (and Wanaka friend) Lance who was not impressed. Well, that and I didn't really want to leave Thailand.
But leave I did, and holy crap, I am so glad I did. I freaking love Japan!
One of my worst tendencies when it comes to this blog is falling behind and then not knowing how to approach a post, but for this one I am just going to write about some of the highlights so far in a point-by-point set-up. Let's start with the surest way to my heart: my stomach.
- The Food!
Oh my god the food! I have a theory as to why it is easily the best I have had on my trip so far. Let me try and explain.
New Zealand and Australia just have mediocre food. It gets the job done (especially their eggs benedict which I miss badly), but it isn't very good.
Thailand is good, but their need to try and please tourists and every segment (it is a bit of a flaw in their set-up) of people makes it hard for them to achieve a singular greatness. It's the Royal Fork theory applied in a macro sense: quantity negates quality.
Japan though...they just focus on what they do and they try their hardest to make it as damn good as they can. I've tried to exclusively eat local favorites (except for breakfast because I cannot for the life of me figure out what they eat for breakfast - the same thing as lunch?), and in the process had AMAZING ramen (not your Costco bought crap - mine was in miso soup and mixed with pork, chicken dumplings, leeks, green onions, bean sprouts and more), soba noodles, pork cutlets with rice and Japanese curry, Takoyaki (a super Japan exclusive that is essentially a dough ball with octopus on the inside and covered with a special sauce and mayo), Okonomiyaki (basically a Japanese savory pancake, although that description does it no justice - most filling food ever) and, of course, sushi.
All amazing. All everywhere. No matter where I go the food is at least very good.
- The People!
When I had sushi on my first full day in Tokyo, it was in the Shibuya district after I gave up trying to find a spot to photograph the Plaza that is so famous (because about 800 million people cross at the same time) and just went and ate. I got a massive mixed platter that was delicious and bizarre (I ate the egg sac of some fish I think), and in the process started speaking with an Air Italia flight attendant named Jacopo and a 67 year old Japanese woman I THINK named Ryi. She was one of the first Japanese I randomly met who spoke English (perhaps the only) and it is thanks to her living in, of all places, Wisconsin for 9 months to teach Japanese.
After we all talked for some time, they both said I had to go to Meiji Jingu, a nearby temple that was supposed to be super incredible. Ryi offered to take me, so I was given a tour of this remarkable place and its nearby gardens by this fun and friendly woman (who hadn't spoken English for 20 years before that day according to her).
We managed to catch a beautiful wedding (she explained a lot of the intricacies), she translated an omikuji for me (essentially a fortune you get at temples), check out a zen garden and all in all having a marvelous time. She also taught me superstitions of the area, a little Japanese (enough to be polite), and complimented me - she told me my voice was beautiful and that I had a good heart (so of course I loved her).
It was awesome.
While everyone isn't like Ryi, everyone is nice, polite and remarkably easy to communicate with given the complete absence of English mostly.
- The Sights!
Whether you're talking beautiful temples like Senso-ji or Meiji Jingu, crazy spiritual sites like Koya-San's Oku-No-In, or simple things like the thrush of people that overwhelms you at every turn, this place has it all. It is a remarkably diverse place for entertainment. The neon lights, the temples, hell, the high quality baseball (go Tigers! Yes, I went to a fame), the art, the hilarious signs, the people (best people watching place EVER)...it makes this place a constantly changing and evolving place to experience.
- The Transportation!
I always said I wish everyone drove like me so the roads would be more efficient. If I controlled all cars, the world would be crazy efficient.
Welcome to Japan, in which everyone is in a hurry and timely TOGETHER.
Using the rail system almost exclusively, I get everywhere fast, I get to the right places, I never get lost, and it is just absurdly reliable. Plus, with my JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass) I can hop on nearly any train for free. Awesome!
One last thing: Andre 3000 once asked "what's cooler than being cool?" The answer was the "ice cold." Alright, alright, alright, I can accept that...but with an addendum. Ice cold AND bullet trains. Best mode of transportation ever!
- The Cost!
Everyone hyped Japan up as being crazy expensive, but I have to say it doesn't feel that expensive at all. Definitely less expensive than Australia. Sure costs are higher than NZ and Thailand, but everything in Japan - from the food to the lodging to the sites - have been of the highest of quality.
So that is it for now. I have to say, a week in and Japan is pretty much perfect in my book. I am so glad I came, even though I was already in one 6.0 earthquake that lasted for a good minute. Scary, but oh so worth it.
Music of the Day: Anathallo's "Floating World"
Thursday, April 21, 2011
A Look Back at Thailand
New Zealand was awesome and Australia...was whatever it was. A hodgepodge of good and bad. But when you get down to it, both of them were easy. Everyone speaks English in those countries, they mostly eat the same food (albeit less quality versions), and they all basically look like me. When the biggest consideration you have to make to adjust is "what kind of coffee should I get?" you know you aren't dealing with a place that is monumentally opposed to your current locale.
Perhaps that is why I liked Thailand so much more than both of those aforementioned countries. I think there is a big part of me that can only be sated by adventure, and even with all of the bungie jumping and swimming with dolphins and enormous spiders and 3 minute monsoons you can possibly handle, neither of those countries felt different enough to be a real adventure.
Now Thailand, with it being my first foray into Asia, the first country on my trip that did not speak English as their primary language, and the first place I have been that could be called a third world country (besides Cleveland, perhaps), was an adventure.
From day one with a huge water fight and $5 beer buffets in Chiang Mai to the last day with street food, mega malls and 14,000 degree heat in Bangkok, this place felt vibrant and engaging for every second of every day. It definitely felt different. It wasn't a perfect country, but in a lot of ways, those imperfections made it all the more charming. Let's talk about the things that made a major impact below.
Best Place: Chiang Mai
As much a major city in an Asian country can feel like home for a 27 year old white Alaskan traveler, Chiang Mai did that. I would walk the streets and see people I knew and that knew me. I would know how to get around and feel comfortable doing so. I felt like I belonged. It was wonderful.
The city itself has enough to do to cover 30 more trips, and I will definitely return again someday. If only to participate in the Songkran Festival again.
Best Event: Songkran Festival
An all encompassing water fight lasting multiple days that features both locals and tourists having the time of their lives together?! How does this not sound amazing to everyone? I had an absurdly good time throughout, but I have to say, come day 5 I was totally ready to not be wet.
Most Easy to Ignore and Oddly Charming Imperfection: The Smell of Trash
When I first arrived I noticed it, but within an hour the omnipresent smell of trash faded from my mind. By the time I got to a place that didn't smell like trash, it felt like something was missing. It never bothered me and it came to be a domineering characteristic of the place...but I am super glad to be gone from it.
Most Difficult to Ignore and Oddly Charming Imperfection: Prostitutes in Koh Samui
I think the only thing that outnumbered prostitutes in Koh Samui (the beach resort island I visited) were the hysterically awkward white, lonely, boorish and often unattractive men that were there specifically for the purpose of creating an economically favorable business transaction with them.
Riding around on my motorbike in Samui, genuinely uninterested in any sort of deal we could work out, I got used to their highly entertaining catcalls as I drove by them. It became my favorite reason to head into town.
Here is my favorite incident: unlike the assuredly comatose standard patrons they receive, I actually had goals and aspirations before 3 pm. One day in fact I got up specifically to catch the sunrise from the beach (hint: it was beautiful). On the way, I turned onto the beach street and had my neck craned to keep an eye on oncoming traffic. It also happened to be pointing at the very interested squadron of prostitutes who were parked on motorbikes near by. Not the type to let an opportunity pass (even at 6 am), one pursued on her bike.
"Yoohoo! Yoo-hoo!"
Oh god. I have a tail!
"Yoohoo! You want to have some fun?"
She pulls up next to me at a 4 way stop, as I say "I'm just here for the sunrise."
It is, in fact, not a she. Well, it sort of is. It was a lady boy, and am fairly certain she would love me long time if given half a chance.
Cue me peeling out.
Biggest Life Goal Achievement: Motorbike!
This barely qualifies as a life goal in some minds I'm sure, but I have always wanted to ride a motorbike (preferably a Vespa). Specifically, in Italy or in Hawaii, but I was open to other options. And if I ignored the catcalls and smells of trash, Samui could easily have been Hawaii.
So for 3 days, I rode around an amazing motorbike and generally had a blast doing so. I had considered doing so while in Chiang Mai, but the prospect of getting a face full of water while driving was scary enough to pass. In Samui, I took it around the whole island, going from a scared and excited neophyte at the beginning to a savvy veteran in the period of...well, about half an hour. They are super easy to drive. But it was everything I thought it could be and more.
Best Thailand Benefit for All of You: Siam Rice Thai Cookery School
I did a one day cooking class in Chiang Mai and learned how to cook all kinds of amazing dishes AND picked up a recipe book. The class was a ton of fun, the instructor Nancy was incredible, and I made some delicious food - namely the spring rolls. And when I get back, I will cook for all of you.
Hottest Place Ever: Bangkok
I only spent a day in Bangkok, but it was a day spent genuinely thinking I was going to pass out at any given moment. Like, right there on the spot. Granted, because I wanted to see temples there, I wore pants and a button up (they have a dress code), so the temperature was skewed. But let me do some math for you.
100+ degrees Fahrenheit + 100% humidity x 15 million people x tight, narrow streets and packed trains = holy lord why does it feel like it is a billion degrees here?!
Most Bizarre and Awesome Shopping Find: Royal Tenenbaums shirt
I hate shopping. It is a fact. But in Bangkok, I was in pursuit of air conditioning and their malls had that in spades. So I spent a good portion of my day in Bangkok in Siam Paragon, a place that will go on record as the biggest mall I have ever been. Or at least the most impressive.
The center of the "mall" (shopping city would likely be a more apt title) was a "department store," and having come from the world of Wal Mart, I expected crap.
What's that? Your department store is 5 stories tall and only features the most highly regarded and fashionable brands at discounted rates, including about 1.7 million brands I have never heard of? And they are all smashed together in an ADD sort of way that makes shopping even interesting to me? Wow. Nice work.
In the process, I came by a shop that had two Wes Andersen themed shirts. For those that know me, you know I love Wes Andersen. Rushmore is my favorite movie ever, and it is by a good margin. Anyways, so the two shirts were a strangely cool Life Aquatic shirt (strange in that I like it even though I hate that movie and cool in that it is a shirt featuring Bill Murray) and the one I bought - a Royal Tenenbaums shirt that is a profile shot of Luke Wilson's Richie from the film, beard, and sweat band and all. Written over it is his line "Are we still friends?" in all caps. Amazing and $30 and mine! Didn't expect that in Thailand.
Best Feature Overall: The Thai People
Some of the nicest, friendliest, happiest and most genuine people you can ever meet. I never felt less than safe, welcome and happy amongst them. Just a remarkably good people.
Most Unfortunate...Anything: Gnarly Sunburn in Samui
Even with tons of sunscreen, I managed to get hellaciously sunburned in Samui. I mean full out blisters and everything sunburn, to the point I couldn't even wear my backpack around. I couldn't sleep for multiple days more than an hour at a time. It was wretched and is just now clearing up, 4 days into Japan.
Most Surprising Disappointment: The Food
While it was universally cheap, I had a hard time finding really goof food. Some spots were amazing, but for the most part the food was inconsistent. Interestingly enough, I think the best food I had was one night having Mexican (Thailand has crazy good Mexican food! Who knew?!) or the food I cooked myself at the cooking class. It easily could have just been me not finding the right spots, but I would be lying if I didn't say the food was a disappointment.
Best Thing EVER (Especially after Australia): How much it cost!
Oh my god, Thailand is so inexpensive in comparison to Australia. Instead of having to downgrade my hostel from a 6 bed dorm to a 10 bed dorm like usual, I was able to upgrade to rooms with king size beds, my own bathroom, TV's with DVD collections and satellite TV and all kinds of creature comforts I'd grown to completely forget existed. It was marvelous. All of that for about 2/3 the cost of most dorm beds I was getting in Australia.
In 10 days in Thailand, I spent probably 1/5 the money I spent in Australia in 14 days living MUCH better. And to be fair, it was probably more like 1/7. I'd have to crunch the numbers. No less, the cost was amazing for my increasingly stressed bank account (have I mentioned Australia was expensive yet?).
So that is it for the wrap up. I have to say, Thailand is a strong contender for "best place I have ever been" along with France. We will see how it ranks once I'm done, but it is truly an amazing place. Go there people!
Perhaps that is why I liked Thailand so much more than both of those aforementioned countries. I think there is a big part of me that can only be sated by adventure, and even with all of the bungie jumping and swimming with dolphins and enormous spiders and 3 minute monsoons you can possibly handle, neither of those countries felt different enough to be a real adventure.
Now Thailand, with it being my first foray into Asia, the first country on my trip that did not speak English as their primary language, and the first place I have been that could be called a third world country (besides Cleveland, perhaps), was an adventure.
From day one with a huge water fight and $5 beer buffets in Chiang Mai to the last day with street food, mega malls and 14,000 degree heat in Bangkok, this place felt vibrant and engaging for every second of every day. It definitely felt different. It wasn't a perfect country, but in a lot of ways, those imperfections made it all the more charming. Let's talk about the things that made a major impact below.
Best Place: Chiang Mai
As much a major city in an Asian country can feel like home for a 27 year old white Alaskan traveler, Chiang Mai did that. I would walk the streets and see people I knew and that knew me. I would know how to get around and feel comfortable doing so. I felt like I belonged. It was wonderful.
The city itself has enough to do to cover 30 more trips, and I will definitely return again someday. If only to participate in the Songkran Festival again.
Best Event: Songkran Festival
An all encompassing water fight lasting multiple days that features both locals and tourists having the time of their lives together?! How does this not sound amazing to everyone? I had an absurdly good time throughout, but I have to say, come day 5 I was totally ready to not be wet.
Most Easy to Ignore and Oddly Charming Imperfection: The Smell of Trash
When I first arrived I noticed it, but within an hour the omnipresent smell of trash faded from my mind. By the time I got to a place that didn't smell like trash, it felt like something was missing. It never bothered me and it came to be a domineering characteristic of the place...but I am super glad to be gone from it.
Most Difficult to Ignore and Oddly Charming Imperfection: Prostitutes in Koh Samui
I think the only thing that outnumbered prostitutes in Koh Samui (the beach resort island I visited) were the hysterically awkward white, lonely, boorish and often unattractive men that were there specifically for the purpose of creating an economically favorable business transaction with them.
Riding around on my motorbike in Samui, genuinely uninterested in any sort of deal we could work out, I got used to their highly entertaining catcalls as I drove by them. It became my favorite reason to head into town.
Here is my favorite incident: unlike the assuredly comatose standard patrons they receive, I actually had goals and aspirations before 3 pm. One day in fact I got up specifically to catch the sunrise from the beach (hint: it was beautiful). On the way, I turned onto the beach street and had my neck craned to keep an eye on oncoming traffic. It also happened to be pointing at the very interested squadron of prostitutes who were parked on motorbikes near by. Not the type to let an opportunity pass (even at 6 am), one pursued on her bike.
"Yoohoo! Yoo-hoo!"
Oh god. I have a tail!
"Yoohoo! You want to have some fun?"
She pulls up next to me at a 4 way stop, as I say "I'm just here for the sunrise."
It is, in fact, not a she. Well, it sort of is. It was a lady boy, and am fairly certain she would love me long time if given half a chance.
Cue me peeling out.
Biggest Life Goal Achievement: Motorbike!
This barely qualifies as a life goal in some minds I'm sure, but I have always wanted to ride a motorbike (preferably a Vespa). Specifically, in Italy or in Hawaii, but I was open to other options. And if I ignored the catcalls and smells of trash, Samui could easily have been Hawaii.
So for 3 days, I rode around an amazing motorbike and generally had a blast doing so. I had considered doing so while in Chiang Mai, but the prospect of getting a face full of water while driving was scary enough to pass. In Samui, I took it around the whole island, going from a scared and excited neophyte at the beginning to a savvy veteran in the period of...well, about half an hour. They are super easy to drive. But it was everything I thought it could be and more.
Best Thailand Benefit for All of You: Siam Rice Thai Cookery School
I did a one day cooking class in Chiang Mai and learned how to cook all kinds of amazing dishes AND picked up a recipe book. The class was a ton of fun, the instructor Nancy was incredible, and I made some delicious food - namely the spring rolls. And when I get back, I will cook for all of you.
Hottest Place Ever: Bangkok
I only spent a day in Bangkok, but it was a day spent genuinely thinking I was going to pass out at any given moment. Like, right there on the spot. Granted, because I wanted to see temples there, I wore pants and a button up (they have a dress code), so the temperature was skewed. But let me do some math for you.
100+ degrees Fahrenheit + 100% humidity x 15 million people x tight, narrow streets and packed trains = holy lord why does it feel like it is a billion degrees here?!
Most Bizarre and Awesome Shopping Find: Royal Tenenbaums shirt
I hate shopping. It is a fact. But in Bangkok, I was in pursuit of air conditioning and their malls had that in spades. So I spent a good portion of my day in Bangkok in Siam Paragon, a place that will go on record as the biggest mall I have ever been. Or at least the most impressive.
The center of the "mall" (shopping city would likely be a more apt title) was a "department store," and having come from the world of Wal Mart, I expected crap.
What's that? Your department store is 5 stories tall and only features the most highly regarded and fashionable brands at discounted rates, including about 1.7 million brands I have never heard of? And they are all smashed together in an ADD sort of way that makes shopping even interesting to me? Wow. Nice work.
In the process, I came by a shop that had two Wes Andersen themed shirts. For those that know me, you know I love Wes Andersen. Rushmore is my favorite movie ever, and it is by a good margin. Anyways, so the two shirts were a strangely cool Life Aquatic shirt (strange in that I like it even though I hate that movie and cool in that it is a shirt featuring Bill Murray) and the one I bought - a Royal Tenenbaums shirt that is a profile shot of Luke Wilson's Richie from the film, beard, and sweat band and all. Written over it is his line "Are we still friends?" in all caps. Amazing and $30 and mine! Didn't expect that in Thailand.
Best Feature Overall: The Thai People
Some of the nicest, friendliest, happiest and most genuine people you can ever meet. I never felt less than safe, welcome and happy amongst them. Just a remarkably good people.
Most Unfortunate...Anything: Gnarly Sunburn in Samui
Even with tons of sunscreen, I managed to get hellaciously sunburned in Samui. I mean full out blisters and everything sunburn, to the point I couldn't even wear my backpack around. I couldn't sleep for multiple days more than an hour at a time. It was wretched and is just now clearing up, 4 days into Japan.
Most Surprising Disappointment: The Food
While it was universally cheap, I had a hard time finding really goof food. Some spots were amazing, but for the most part the food was inconsistent. Interestingly enough, I think the best food I had was one night having Mexican (Thailand has crazy good Mexican food! Who knew?!) or the food I cooked myself at the cooking class. It easily could have just been me not finding the right spots, but I would be lying if I didn't say the food was a disappointment.
Best Thing EVER (Especially after Australia): How much it cost!
Oh my god, Thailand is so inexpensive in comparison to Australia. Instead of having to downgrade my hostel from a 6 bed dorm to a 10 bed dorm like usual, I was able to upgrade to rooms with king size beds, my own bathroom, TV's with DVD collections and satellite TV and all kinds of creature comforts I'd grown to completely forget existed. It was marvelous. All of that for about 2/3 the cost of most dorm beds I was getting in Australia.
In 10 days in Thailand, I spent probably 1/5 the money I spent in Australia in 14 days living MUCH better. And to be fair, it was probably more like 1/7. I'd have to crunch the numbers. No less, the cost was amazing for my increasingly stressed bank account (have I mentioned Australia was expensive yet?).
So that is it for the wrap up. I have to say, Thailand is a strong contender for "best place I have ever been" along with France. We will see how it ranks once I'm done, but it is truly an amazing place. Go there people!
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