Japan: Every Little Thing You Do is Magic

I had really mixed feelings coming into Japan. On one hand, I always had a fascination with the country - I found the blend of the latest and greatest in technology and style with the zen gardens and mystical thoughtfulness to be an alluring set up for a place to visit.

But at the same time, the March 11th earthquake loomed overhead as did the feedback from fellow traveler (and Wanaka friend) Lance who was not impressed. Well, that and I didn't really want to leave Thailand.

But leave I did, and holy crap, I am so glad I did. I freaking love Japan!

One of my worst tendencies when it comes to this blog is falling behind and then not knowing how to approach a post, but for this one I am just going to write about some of the highlights so far in a point-by-point set-up. Let's start with the surest way to my heart: my stomach.

- The Food!

Oh my god the food! I have a theory as to why it is easily the best I have had on my trip so far. Let me try and explain.

New Zealand and Australia just have mediocre food. It gets the job done (especially their eggs benedict which I miss badly), but it isn't very good.

Thailand is good, but their need to try and please tourists and every segment (it is a bit of a flaw in their set-up) of people makes it hard for them to achieve a singular greatness. It's the Royal Fork theory applied in a macro sense: quantity negates quality.

Japan though...they just focus on what they do and they try their hardest to make it as damn good as they can. I've tried to exclusively eat local favorites (except for breakfast because I cannot for the life of me figure out what they eat for breakfast - the same thing as lunch?), and in the process had AMAZING ramen (not your Costco bought crap - mine was in miso soup and mixed with pork, chicken dumplings, leeks, green onions, bean sprouts and more), soba noodles, pork cutlets with rice and Japanese curry, Takoyaki (a super Japan exclusive that is essentially a dough ball with octopus on the inside and covered with a special sauce and mayo), Okonomiyaki (basically a Japanese savory pancake, although that description does it no justice - most filling food ever) and, of course, sushi.

All amazing. All everywhere. No matter where I go the food is at least very good.

- The People!

When I had sushi on my first full day in Tokyo, it was in the Shibuya district after I gave up trying to find a spot to photograph the Plaza that is so famous (because about 800 million people cross at the same time) and just went and ate. I got a massive mixed platter that was delicious and bizarre (I ate the egg sac of some fish I think), and in the process started speaking with an Air Italia flight attendant named Jacopo and a 67 year old Japanese woman I THINK named Ryi. She was one of the first Japanese I randomly met who spoke English (perhaps the only) and it is thanks to her living in, of all places, Wisconsin for 9 months to teach Japanese.

After we all talked for some time, they both said I had to go to Meiji Jingu, a nearby temple that was supposed to be super incredible. Ryi offered to take me, so I was given a tour of this remarkable place and its nearby gardens by this fun and friendly woman (who hadn't spoken English for 20 years before that day according to her).

We managed to catch a beautiful wedding (she explained a lot of the intricacies), she translated an omikuji for me (essentially a fortune you get at temples), check out a zen garden and all in all having a marvelous time. She also taught me superstitions of the area, a little Japanese (enough to be polite), and complimented me - she told me my voice was beautiful and that I had a good heart (so of course I loved her). 

It was awesome.

While everyone isn't like Ryi, everyone is nice, polite and remarkably easy to communicate with given the complete absence of English mostly.

- The Sights!

Whether you're talking beautiful temples like Senso-ji or Meiji Jingu, crazy spiritual sites like Koya-San's Oku-No-In, or simple things like the thrush of people that overwhelms you at every turn, this place has it all. It is a remarkably diverse place for entertainment. The neon lights, the temples, hell, the high quality baseball (go Tigers! Yes, I went to a fame), the art, the hilarious signs, the people (best people watching place EVER)...it makes this place a constantly changing and evolving place to experience.

- The Transportation!

I always said I wish everyone drove like me so the roads would be more efficient. If I controlled all cars, the world would be crazy efficient.

Welcome to Japan, in which everyone is in a hurry and timely TOGETHER. 

Using the rail system almost exclusively, I get everywhere fast, I get to the right places, I never get lost, and it is just absurdly reliable. Plus, with my JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass) I can hop on nearly any train for free. Awesome!

One last thing: Andre 3000 once asked "what's cooler than being cool?" The answer was the "ice cold." Alright, alright, alright, I can accept that...but with an addendum. Ice cold AND bullet trains. Best mode of transportation ever!

- The Cost!

Everyone hyped Japan up as being crazy expensive, but I have to say it doesn't feel that expensive at all. Definitely less expensive than Australia. Sure costs are higher than NZ and Thailand, but everything in Japan - from the food to the lodging to the sites - have been of the highest of quality.

So that is it for now. I have to say, a week in and Japan is pretty much perfect in my book. I am so glad I came, even though I was already in one 6.0 earthquake that lasted for a good minute. Scary, but oh so worth it.

Music of the Day: Anathallo's "Floating World"