Friday, April 29, 2011

Am I Glad I Took My Trip?

Before you read this post, check out the post I also made directly below this! I am doubling up, believe it or not (sorry I suck at blog!).

Recently, a couple friends (Amy and Cate to be specific) asked me a question. Am I glad that I took my trip? Well, something like that, but still, that was the general point of the question.

So...am I?

The simple answer is yes, of course I am.

I love Alaska, don't get me wrong, but there tends to be a certain amount of frustration that comes with seeing the same people that I don't want to see all of the time but do because Anchorage is tiny and doing the same things over and over. I wanted some variety. That is the spice of life, yes?

Replacing that with anything fresh would likely have resulted in an upgrade on the happy scale.

Replacing it with a dream trip around the world in which I get to see and do things I never would have otherwise while I still can enjoy it to its fullest...well, that is just the best thing ever, isn't it?

Doing what I am doing right now is something anyone in their right mind would enjoy incredibly. Sure, it has downsides. I LOVE Japan - I think it is perhaps the best place I have ever been overall - but after the earthquake the amount of travelers is down big time so it has tended to be a little on the lonely side. Australia was...well, Australia was frustrating and expensive, even with the good that came with it. Thailand was wet, dirty and filled with prostitutes (which, as I have mentioned previously, is a reason to visit for some). New Zealand was beautiful but was not the most culturally resonant place I have ever been. They are all wonderful, but just like Alaska, every place has a downside.

But the good news about their downside is it is new downside, so it is still a unique experience to me. It is still exciting. I am doing something that I will look back on for the rest of my life and think "man, I really (fill in the blank with an experience here)."

When I talked to my dad recently on Easter, he suggested to me that it seems like I have learned a lot already. I am not so sure about that - I don't feel different (said like Guy Pearce says "I don't feel drunk" in Memento), but it is hard to notice changes of that scale I think. But I would like to think I have grown in little, subtle ways that even I can't detect.

So yes, I am glad in many different ways that I took my trip. Best yet? I am glad that it is barely even half over. 2.5 more months baby! Europe is coming next!

Music of the day: Yann Tiersen's "Amelie" soundtrack

P.S. I hope to write more. I have blog ideas coming out of the wazoo, but I have a tendency to hate writing extended write-ups on my iPad. It crams my hands and is SUPER frustrating in that I make a billion typos and then it takes me a bit to correct each one. I do not like that, no I do not.

A Note of Loss

This trip is paying off dividends already! In my nearly 2 months gone, I have lost about 22 pounds! Yeah! I would like to thank the massive decrease in alcohol intake from my diet, diminished amounts of coffee and lots and lots of walking. I wouldn't be the same without you.

Actually, I suppose I would be. I would be the exact same! But still, more benefits that come from this trip seem to appear around every corner.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

Japan: Every Little Thing You Do is Magic

I had really mixed feelings coming into Japan. On one hand, I always had a fascination with the country - I found the blend of the latest and greatest in technology and style with the zen gardens and mystical thoughtfulness to be an alluring set up for a place to visit.

But at the same time, the March 11th earthquake loomed overhead as did the feedback from fellow traveler (and Wanaka friend) Lance who was not impressed. Well, that and I didn't really want to leave Thailand.

But leave I did, and holy crap, I am so glad I did. I freaking love Japan!

One of my worst tendencies when it comes to this blog is falling behind and then not knowing how to approach a post, but for this one I am just going to write about some of the highlights so far in a point-by-point set-up. Let's start with the surest way to my heart: my stomach.

- The Food!

Oh my god the food! I have a theory as to why it is easily the best I have had on my trip so far. Let me try and explain.

New Zealand and Australia just have mediocre food. It gets the job done (especially their eggs benedict which I miss badly), but it isn't very good.

Thailand is good, but their need to try and please tourists and every segment (it is a bit of a flaw in their set-up) of people makes it hard for them to achieve a singular greatness. It's the Royal Fork theory applied in a macro sense: quantity negates quality.

Japan though...they just focus on what they do and they try their hardest to make it as damn good as they can. I've tried to exclusively eat local favorites (except for breakfast because I cannot for the life of me figure out what they eat for breakfast - the same thing as lunch?), and in the process had AMAZING ramen (not your Costco bought crap - mine was in miso soup and mixed with pork, chicken dumplings, leeks, green onions, bean sprouts and more), soba noodles, pork cutlets with rice and Japanese curry, Takoyaki (a super Japan exclusive that is essentially a dough ball with octopus on the inside and covered with a special sauce and mayo), Okonomiyaki (basically a Japanese savory pancake, although that description does it no justice - most filling food ever) and, of course, sushi.

All amazing. All everywhere. No matter where I go the food is at least very good.

- The People!

When I had sushi on my first full day in Tokyo, it was in the Shibuya district after I gave up trying to find a spot to photograph the Plaza that is so famous (because about 800 million people cross at the same time) and just went and ate. I got a massive mixed platter that was delicious and bizarre (I ate the egg sac of some fish I think), and in the process started speaking with an Air Italia flight attendant named Jacopo and a 67 year old Japanese woman I THINK named Ryi. She was one of the first Japanese I randomly met who spoke English (perhaps the only) and it is thanks to her living in, of all places, Wisconsin for 9 months to teach Japanese.

After we all talked for some time, they both said I had to go to Meiji Jingu, a nearby temple that was supposed to be super incredible. Ryi offered to take me, so I was given a tour of this remarkable place and its nearby gardens by this fun and friendly woman (who hadn't spoken English for 20 years before that day according to her).

We managed to catch a beautiful wedding (she explained a lot of the intricacies), she translated an omikuji for me (essentially a fortune you get at temples), check out a zen garden and all in all having a marvelous time. She also taught me superstitions of the area, a little Japanese (enough to be polite), and complimented me - she told me my voice was beautiful and that I had a good heart (so of course I loved her). 

It was awesome.

While everyone isn't like Ryi, everyone is nice, polite and remarkably easy to communicate with given the complete absence of English mostly.

- The Sights!

Whether you're talking beautiful temples like Senso-ji or Meiji Jingu, crazy spiritual sites like Koya-San's Oku-No-In, or simple things like the thrush of people that overwhelms you at every turn, this place has it all. It is a remarkably diverse place for entertainment. The neon lights, the temples, hell, the high quality baseball (go Tigers! Yes, I went to a fame), the art, the hilarious signs, the people (best people watching place EVER)...it makes this place a constantly changing and evolving place to experience.

- The Transportation!

I always said I wish everyone drove like me so the roads would be more efficient. If I controlled all cars, the world would be crazy efficient.

Welcome to Japan, in which everyone is in a hurry and timely TOGETHER. 

Using the rail system almost exclusively, I get everywhere fast, I get to the right places, I never get lost, and it is just absurdly reliable. Plus, with my JR Pass (Japan Rail Pass) I can hop on nearly any train for free. Awesome!

One last thing: Andre 3000 once asked "what's cooler than being cool?" The answer was the "ice cold." Alright, alright, alright, I can accept that...but with an addendum. Ice cold AND bullet trains. Best mode of transportation ever!

- The Cost!

Everyone hyped Japan up as being crazy expensive, but I have to say it doesn't feel that expensive at all. Definitely less expensive than Australia. Sure costs are higher than NZ and Thailand, but everything in Japan - from the food to the lodging to the sites - have been of the highest of quality.

So that is it for now. I have to say, a week in and Japan is pretty much perfect in my book. I am so glad I came, even though I was already in one 6.0 earthquake that lasted for a good minute. Scary, but oh so worth it.

Music of the Day: Anathallo's "Floating World"

Thursday, April 21, 2011

A Look Back at Thailand

New Zealand was awesome and Australia...was whatever it was. A hodgepodge of good and bad. But when you get down to it, both of them were easy. Everyone speaks English in those countries, they mostly eat the same food (albeit less quality versions), and they all basically look like me. When the biggest consideration you have to make to adjust is "what kind of coffee should I get?" you know you aren't dealing with a place that is monumentally opposed to your current locale.

Perhaps that is why I liked Thailand so much more than both of those aforementioned countries. I think there is a big part of me that can only be sated by adventure, and even with all of the bungie jumping and swimming with dolphins and enormous spiders and 3 minute monsoons you can possibly handle, neither of those countries felt different enough to be a real adventure.

Now Thailand, with it being my first foray into Asia, the first country on my trip that did not speak English as their primary language, and the first place I have been that could be called a third world country (besides Cleveland, perhaps), was an adventure.

From day one with a huge water fight and $5 beer buffets in Chiang Mai to the last day with street food, mega malls and 14,000 degree heat in Bangkok, this place felt vibrant and engaging for every second of every day. It definitely felt different. It wasn't a perfect country, but in a lot of ways, those imperfections made it all the more charming. Let's talk about the things that made a major impact below.

Best Place: Chiang Mai

As much a major city in an Asian country can feel like home for a 27 year old white Alaskan traveler, Chiang Mai did that. I would walk the streets and see people I knew and that knew me. I would know how to get around and feel comfortable doing so. I felt like I belonged. It was wonderful.

The city itself has enough to do to cover 30 more trips, and I will definitely return again someday. If only to participate in the Songkran Festival again.

Best Event: Songkran Festival

An all encompassing water fight lasting multiple days that features both locals and tourists having the time of their lives together?! How does this not sound amazing to everyone? I had an absurdly good time throughout, but I have to say, come day 5 I was totally ready to not be wet.

Most Easy to Ignore and Oddly Charming Imperfection: The Smell of Trash

When I first arrived I noticed it, but within an hour the omnipresent smell of trash faded from my mind. By the time I got to a place that didn't smell like trash, it felt like something was missing. It never bothered me and it came to be a domineering characteristic of the place...but I am super glad to be gone from it.

Most Difficult to Ignore and Oddly Charming Imperfection: Prostitutes in Koh Samui

I think the only thing that outnumbered prostitutes in Koh Samui (the beach resort island I visited) were the hysterically awkward white, lonely, boorish and often unattractive men that were there specifically for the purpose of creating an economically favorable business transaction with them.

Riding around on my motorbike in Samui, genuinely uninterested in any sort of deal we could work out, I got used to their highly entertaining catcalls as I drove by them. It became my favorite reason to head into town.

Here is my favorite incident: unlike the assuredly comatose standard patrons they receive, I actually had goals and aspirations before 3 pm. One day in fact I got up specifically to catch the sunrise from the beach (hint: it was beautiful). On the way, I turned onto the beach street and had my neck craned to keep an eye on oncoming traffic. It also happened to be pointing at the very interested squadron of prostitutes who were parked on motorbikes near by. Not the type to let an opportunity pass (even at 6 am), one pursued on her bike.

"Yoohoo! Yoo-hoo!"

Oh god. I have a tail!

"Yoohoo! You want to have some fun?"

She pulls up next to me at a 4 way stop, as I say "I'm just here for the sunrise."

It is, in fact, not a she. Well, it sort of is. It was a lady boy, and am fairly certain she would love me long time if given half a chance.

Cue me peeling out.

Biggest Life Goal Achievement: Motorbike!

This barely qualifies as a life goal in some minds I'm sure, but I have always wanted to ride a motorbike (preferably a Vespa). Specifically, in Italy or in Hawaii, but I was open to other options. And if I ignored the catcalls and smells of trash, Samui could easily have been Hawaii.

So for 3 days, I rode around an amazing motorbike and generally had a blast doing so. I had considered doing so while in Chiang Mai, but the prospect of getting a face full of water while driving was scary enough to pass. In Samui, I took it around the whole island, going from a scared and excited neophyte at the beginning to a savvy veteran in the period of...well, about half an hour. They are super easy to drive. But it was everything I thought it could be and more.

Best Thailand Benefit for All of You: Siam Rice Thai Cookery School

I did a one day cooking class in Chiang Mai and learned how to cook all kinds of amazing dishes AND picked up a recipe book. The class was a ton of fun, the instructor Nancy was incredible, and I made some delicious food - namely the spring rolls. And when I get back, I will cook for all of you.

Hottest Place Ever: Bangkok

I only spent a day in Bangkok, but it was a day spent genuinely thinking I was going to pass out at any given moment. Like, right there on the spot. Granted, because I wanted to see temples there, I wore pants and a button up (they have a dress code), so the temperature was skewed. But let me do some math for you.

100+ degrees Fahrenheit + 100% humidity x 15 million people x tight, narrow streets and packed trains = holy lord why does it feel like it is a billion degrees here?!

Most Bizarre and Awesome Shopping Find: Royal Tenenbaums shirt

I hate shopping. It is a fact. But in Bangkok, I was in pursuit of air conditioning and their malls had that in spades. So I spent a good portion of my day in Bangkok in Siam Paragon, a place that will go on record as the biggest mall I have ever been. Or at least the most impressive.

The center of the "mall" (shopping city would likely be a more apt title) was a "department store," and having come from the world of Wal Mart, I expected crap.

What's that? Your department store is 5 stories tall and only features the most highly regarded and fashionable brands at discounted rates, including about 1.7 million brands I have never heard of? And they are all smashed together in an ADD sort of way that makes shopping even interesting to me? Wow. Nice work.

In the process, I came by a shop that had two Wes Andersen themed shirts. For those that know me, you know I love Wes Andersen. Rushmore is my favorite movie ever, and it is by a good margin. Anyways, so the two shirts were a strangely cool Life Aquatic shirt (strange in that I like it even though I hate that movie and cool in that it is a shirt featuring Bill Murray) and the one I bought - a Royal Tenenbaums shirt that is a profile shot of Luke Wilson's Richie from the film, beard, and sweat band and all. Written over it is his line "Are we still friends?" in all caps. Amazing and $30 and mine! Didn't expect that in Thailand.

Best Feature Overall: The Thai People

Some of the nicest, friendliest, happiest and most genuine people you can ever meet. I never felt less than safe, welcome and happy amongst them. Just a remarkably good people.

Most Unfortunate...Anything: Gnarly Sunburn in Samui

Even with tons of sunscreen, I managed to get hellaciously sunburned in Samui. I mean full out blisters and everything sunburn, to the point I couldn't even wear my backpack around. I couldn't sleep for multiple days more than an hour at a time. It was wretched and is just now clearing up, 4 days into Japan.

Most Surprising Disappointment: The Food

While it was universally cheap, I had a hard time finding really goof food. Some spots were amazing, but for the most part the food was inconsistent. Interestingly enough, I think the best food I had was one night having Mexican (Thailand has crazy good Mexican food! Who knew?!) or the food I cooked myself at the cooking class. It easily could have just been me not finding the right spots, but I would be lying if I didn't say the food was a disappointment.

Best Thing EVER (Especially after Australia): How much it cost!

Oh my god, Thailand is so inexpensive in comparison to Australia. Instead of having to downgrade my hostel from a 6 bed dorm to a 10 bed dorm like usual, I was able to upgrade to rooms with king size beds, my own bathroom, TV's with DVD collections and satellite TV and all kinds of creature comforts I'd grown to completely forget existed. It was marvelous. All of that for about 2/3 the cost of most dorm beds I was getting in Australia.

In 10 days in Thailand, I spent probably 1/5 the money I spent in Australia in 14 days living MUCH better. And to be fair, it was probably more like 1/7. I'd have to crunch the numbers. No less, the cost was amazing for my increasingly stressed bank account (have I mentioned Australia was expensive yet?).

So that is it for the wrap up. I have to say, Thailand is a strong contender for "best place I have ever been" along with France. We will see how it ranks once I'm done, but it is truly an amazing place. Go there people!

Monday, April 18, 2011

Party Down

Having just left Australia and Thailand, two of the most hellacious party countries you could ever visit, you'd think I'd be on the verge of death from alcohol poisoning. Or at the very least in some sort of multi week hangover state.

But here is a surprise for those who know me - I've pretty much cut out drinking on my trip.

Even in Koh Samui, the supreme party beach island I've just departed where beers are rarely above 2 dollars and most one, I managed to have just one beer in 3 full days time. This is with a contingent of British emissaries staying where I was at who were visiting for, near as I can tell, the explicit purpose of drinking until their moral convictions are worn down to the point partaking in local...professionals feels A-OK. Then they go to bed around 6 am, wake up around 2 or 3 pm, and start it over again.

I'm not coming down on them, but constant heavy drinking and prostitutes didn't fit into my itinerary it seems (say it with me now: "but why not?!" INTERROBANG!).

I have partied a few times. In Chiang Mai once, in Noosa a couple times, one night in Sydney. But really, in a month and a half, 4 times being drunk is pretty light for a vacationer I feel (or near as I can tell based off my compatriots I meet).

I think a few things dictate this decision.

1) I had a conversation in Brisbane with a British girl about the different types of travelers. She suggested one type was those who come to get drunk in a foreign country. I NEVER want to be classified as that type. If I wanted to get drunk every night, I could have stayed in Alaska (where, for some reason, that concept feels more palatable).

2) When you have just a short time to experience the world, why would you want to waste half of it being hungover? Hangovers SUCK at 27 - enter hemming and hawing from readers who are older than me.

3) To do a lot of the really cool, grandiose things I would like to do, you have to get up wicked early. Have you gotten up at 6 am recently after drinking heavily until 4 am?

4) I do not want to go to jail in a foreign country. Especially Thailand.

5) Most of the people in hostels are much younger than me. Regardless of recent swan related posts, I have no problem with those younger than me. Besides the fact that most of them are needy, dumb, and terrible drinkers. Plus, drinking with 18 year olds just feels sad and weird. Maybe they'd impress me if I was raised on a farm and I was retarded. But I didn't, so they don't. (name that paraphrased movie quote!)

6) I'm not vacationing - I'm living abroad. To use a blatant cliche, it's not a race, it's a marathon (which is also a race, yes? Stupid cliche!).

That's not to say I don't enjoy the occasional beer. The other night in Chiang Mai, I went out with some people, had 4 or 5 beers over a few hours. Ate dinner. Went to an absurdly cool reggae bar on a roof and met some borderline retarded people. Went home for rest so I could go check out some pandas at the zoo the next day. Bed at midnight.

Not a bad formula. It is just being an occasional social drinker. Ain't nothing wrong with that. Who knows, maybe when I get to Europe and have a lot of time on my hands I might fall back into the throes of the party world. Or maybe not. We'll play it by ear, but I'm sure that occasion will be celebrated with a poorly written and long blog post about how much I love you all.

Especially you Matt Keortge. You sly devil, you.

Music of the day: Sufjan Stevens' excellent album The Age of Adz (seeing him at Primavera Sound!)

Friday, April 15, 2011

Chiang Mai I Love You, But You're Making Me Wet

Note: this is my second post today. Check out my Australia recap below.

I had grand aspirations of posting a couple blogs while in Chiang Mai for four nights and five days. After all, I for once had a private room with FREE (FREE!!!) WiFi within it.

But as it tends to happen, when you have plans for one thing, they typically turn into something else entirely.

Case in point: Chiang Mai during the Songkran Festival.

It turns out it is really, really fun.

Not only that, but for the whole of my time there, I was wet. Even now, As I'm sitting here on my flight from Chiang Mai to Ko Samui, my shoes are completely soaked.

The reason why is that the Songkran Festival (the celebration of the Thai New Year - sawadee pee mai everyone!) comes to life in the form of the world's most massive water fight (that is a legit statement - they set the record the other day in Bangkok as 3,774 people were soaking each other for 10 minutes in one city square). Not only that, but it lasts for a week and brings everyone from monks to small children to tourists to old Thai grandmas into the fight.

It is monumental chaos with thousands and thousands of people in the city involved at any given moment.

It's both a gift and a curse - when you want to stay dry, it is virtually impossible - but no matter what, it quickly becomes a lot of fun as well. My opening salvo was 2.5 hours of the most fun I've ever had. I looked like the Joker hit me with laughing gas the whole time, partially because it is such a communal experience.

Besides the Songkran festival though, my time in Thailand was tops all over. Whether I was off making friends at the Beer Buffet (an immensely popular night at a bar in the President Hotel in which you get unlimited Heineken for 4 hours for 150 baht...or $5), checking out temples (like the immense and resplendent Wat Phra That Doi Suthep that was on top of a nearby mountain that overlooked the city) or, best of all, taking a cooking class at Siam Rice Cooking School, I was having a marvelous time. Throw in the fact that the people are some of the warmest and most genuine and inviting people you will ever meet, and I was in love with the place.

The city is just loaded with things to do. The list of things I wanted to do but couldn't (it turns out Songkran also ups the amount of visitors, thus the amount of people robbing me of a chance to do things I wanted to) was enormous but highlighted by the Patara Elephant Farm, in which you adopt an elephant for the day, feeding them, bathing them, swimming with them, and just caring for them. Obviously that would have been great...but I guess I will just have to go back.

I hate to say this, but one of my favorite things about the city is how inexpensive it was. After Australia, I needed a breather, and this was it. For my own room with a king bed, air conditioning, a tv with satellite, maid service, and a whole lot more, I was spending $20 a day - which was far less than every place I stayed in New Zealand or Australia AND was way nicer and my own room (private time is necessary every once in a while). Plus, the staff was very helpful and friendly (when I was looking into going to Ko Samui, I asked the guy who ran the place about the recent floods - Tony - and he asked guests until he found someone who had been recently so he could better answer my question).

Besides that, I managed to eat a dinner of pad Thai, gyoza, bottled water and gelato for 85 baht...or a little less than $3. Beer when not in glorious buffet form was around the same. Bottled water alone cost me around 5 baht...or around 16 cents.

It was insane.

I was in paradise, and in 4 days of doing a ton of stuff and living pretty extravagantly, I spent around $200.

Amazing.

Chiang Mai is without a doubt one of the best places I've ever been. It was hard to leave it, but with everything booked up and my desire to get a diverse Thai experience, it was time to go. Pictures will go up on Facebook soon probably, although I must say Songkran limited my picture taking because of how dangerous it was to have a non water proof camera out during it.

Here's hoping the rest of Thailand can live up to Chiang Mai's greatness. 3 days and nights in Ko Samui (and surrounding islands like Ko Tao and Ko Pha Ngan) and then one day in Bangkok left, and I find it likely that Thailand will surpass New Zealand as my favorite country so far on my trip.

More on that later, but for now, I ask everyone this: who is coming with me next year?

Music of the day: Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros - "Home" ("Home is wherever I'm with you")

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Australia: It's Not You...It's Me

Dear Australia,

We need to talk.

You know I've always loved you. Ever since I sketched the Sydney Opera House for school (and got a superlative grade!) I've been fascinated by your glorious architecture, your barren outback (that's what she said) and your incredible barrier reef. For a kid growing up in Alaska, it's hard not to be because my state and your country are direct opposites in a lot of ways.

But just because I love you doesn't mean I'm in love with you.

The reason why is me, not you. I quickly realized that 2 weeks and the paltry thousands of US dollars I brought to your shores was just not enough, and that is entirely my fault. You deserve better (and more...mostly more).

It isn't that I didn't love parts of you. Your southern region, namely Melbourne, was artistic and easy to traverse. It was diverse, it was exciting, it was delicious, and it was a whole lot of fun. I could spend lots and lots of time there - it is wonderful.

Same with Noosa, with its chill beach town vibe, its people and its close proximity to rad things to do like Fraser Island, which was a glorious natural sand island (massive island! All sand!) with one of the most amazing lakes I've ever seen.

But your temperamental weather, weak sauce major cities (I'm looking at you Brisbane and Sydney), and insanely expensive nature harmed our relationship irreparably. But that isn't your fault - New Zealand upped the ante and it would be hard for anyone to match its wonder.

What I'm trying to say is, while I will always love you and appreciated our time together, I think it's time we started seeing other countries. You can have England (not that you already don't have them - tramp!!!), and I will take Thailand. I think it is better for the both of us.

Love,

David Harper

P.S. I want my The Living End albums and Crocodile Dundee DVD's back. I'm sure you understand.

Saturday, April 9, 2011

"You Sound Like You're From London!"


For some reason, my entire life I have naturally tracked trends of things that happen. Everything, not just meaningful things. For example, at my previous job I was lucky enough to have an office right by the bathroom. This led me to start noticing who went to the bathroom the most (and I was good at it!). I couldn't help it. I did it completely without thinking.

Now that I'm on my trip, it still is impossible to not notice things. The thing that is the most constant though is the nationalities if fellow travelers that I meet.

In case you have never been in one, hostels are set up typically with dorm rooms with between 4 and 10 beds per room. Given that you are all obviously relatively like minded individuals, you get to talking and where the person is from is invariably the first question (note: names sometimes never even come into the picture - in Brisbane there were two girls who simply knew me as "Alaska").

That's where the trending comes in, and the first point of this post: I genuinely believe there is no one left in England. They are CLEARLY all traveling. So far, Brits are the dominant traveling nationality I have met, and it isn't close. I've met hundreds of them, and now when someone says they are from England my response is a quiet "of course you are." Granted, this makes sense given the ties of Oceania and the UK as well as the omnipresent strength of the British Pound, but still, it is pretty incredible when I can be in one 10 bed dorm and 7 of the 10 are from England.

Sure, there are a lot of Germans around. Canadiens pop up fairly often as well, and you even have the occasional squib that shows up (I've met a really cool Iraqi and an absurdly cool Dane). Interestingly enough though, I have only met 4 American Backpackers so far in my travels. The funny thing too is that amongst Backpackers, Americans have bad reputations, and based off my experiences so far with them, I tend to believe they are earned.

A lot of the younger American Backpackers I've met are needy, ethnocentric, not understanding and kind of jerks (cue jokes about me from readers).

Interestingly enough though, I have been exempt from the negativity from travelers. It turns out that Alaska is universally interesting, whether it be based around their bizarre fascination with Sarah Palin, the beauty of the state, or any other awkward fact (my favorite Alaskan comment was from a hostel owner in Paihia - "You must love it here. I heard there are no women in Alaska!" - after which he laughed like a hyena). Seemingly, everyone watches reality shows about AK too, as I had three gents from Manchester (fancy that) quiz me about the Alaska State Troopers show, a slew of people ask me about Deadliest Catch and Ice Road Truckers, and even a few about Sarah Palin's Alaska. They think Alaska is the most interesting place ever, thus, I am interesting (psyche!!!).

Back to the point though, with me heading to Thailand today, I'm sure the demographic splits will shift. Who knows what the next dominant nationality will be? I don't know right now, but I can guarantee you I will know in about 8 days.

Stupid robot brain.

Music of the day: Andrew Bird, all of his stuff

Black Swan


I think one of the interesting things I've found out about myself so far on this trip is just how affected I am by animals. I've spent a lot of my time doing things that are animal related, visiting zoos, swimming with dolphins, holding koalas...whatever. I really love animals.

Then, yesterday, I was in a cafe that has quickly become a favorite of mine in Melbourne when I came across a story about a male black swan whose mate was brutally killed by seven local teenagers (they threw rocks at her for no apparent reason) as she sacrificed herself to protect her eggs. The male has spent every waking moment since protecting the eggs, never leaving for more than a minute, rarely (if ever) eating. The story truly broke my heart and really sealed the deal - I hate teenagers. They are awful people seemingly more often than not.

Another thing it did was caused me to go on a bit of a walkabout (to steal my friend Brandon's terminology), traveling to the direct opposite side of the city - an hour by tram, 20 minutes by foot - just so I could see this swan. And I have to say, the experience was moving and really, really sad. Swans mate just once in life, and they spend their entire lives with their mate. To have that robbed from him...well, I'm not going to pretend to be able to understand the emotions that may or may not exist within them, but if you think of it from a human perspective, it is a wildly tragic story.

A lot of really cool things have happened lately (which you will hear about sooner rather than later), but this story I felt needed to be shared. People really need to be better to animals. There is no reason not to be, yet this story exists because people cannot be good. It's a damn shame.

And yes, that is an awful pic I actually took myself of the swan at the top.

Thursday, April 7, 2011

Anything but "Melboring"

Shortly before I left Alaska, I had breakfast at the bar in Snow City (as I often tended to do) when I met this guy who traveled a ton and had a lot to share when it came to Australia and New Zealand. The one thing that really stood out about this guy (besides his remarkably disgusting dripping nose) was his insistence on referring to Melbourne as "Melboring."

"Don't go there. It sucks. Skip it entirely."

Didn't seem like it would be a problem, but as my travels continued a combination of everyone I talked to saying Melbourne was awesome and the persistent crappy weather on the East Coast (which I was headed up until recently) made me call an audible: I guess I will head to Melbourne.

Two nights and two days later, and I love this place.

Arty without seeming forced, hip without being (too) hipster, easy to get around, filled with exciting things to do, good food, incredible architecture, and a nice place to stay, Melbourne is without a doubt the best place I have been in Australia.

Sure, some of that has to do with the fact the city is hosting the Supanova Pop Culture Expo and the Melbourne Comedy Festival right now so I did happen to get really lucky, but the city still rules.

Take Center Lane for example, a tiny back alley street filled with street art, incredible cafes, and the entrance to an exemplary little arcade (which is basically a small mall). This area quickly became my home base after the ACMI (Australian Centre for the Moving Image), as I ate inexpensively and deliciously amongst their tiny storefronts.

My biggest problem so far with the cities of Oz had been that they completely lacked personality. I now know why: it was all allocated to Melbourne.

And the things to do are amazing. I caught 4 acts at the Comedy Festival yesterday: Austrlaian Peter Pan influenced genius Bec Hill (who reminded me of my friend Sheri so much in personality it made me miss her more than a little), 30 Rock writer and former SNL writer Hannibal Buress (whose limited time made me actually cry for a solid 10 minutes of sheer hilarity), the misanthropic and hilarious offerings of Tom Segura (who told a joke about facial tattoos that nearly killed me), and the divisive and brilliant (and more than a little intense) Moshe Kasher.

All entertained for different reasons. All proved to be incredibly great. I really hope Hill makes it though - the other three are known already, and Hill is a relative neophyte but her comedy was fresh, funny and uplifting. She didn't rely on stereotypes, she kept her audience engaged, and she focused on what is important: embracing your inner (and outer - she was wearing a Spider-Man skirt) child.

And tonight I see The Dan Band from Old School and The Hangover fame!

Besides that, ACMI was amazing both from an architecture standpoint and from what it had to offer. The pay exhibit was "Dreams Come True," a Disney by way of fairy tales bit. Coming loaded with original art and process work from films all the way from Steamboat Willie to Tangled, this was a comprehensive and engrossing installation.

The free section was every bit as fun, as it offered visitors a look at the evolution of film and tons of interactive opportunities (like creating your own bullet time shots - see this or creating your own visual flip book) and even a room talking about video games and the evolution of them, giving you the opportunity to see the progression yourself, as you play games all the way from Pong and Tempest to games like Mario Kart Wii and Little Big Planet.

Basically, Melbourne has a crazy amount of stuff to do, and even with illness creeping in (I'm fighting it off though!!), I am doing everything I can to fill my days with as much fun as I can.

There is a whole lot more I missed, but I think I covered the big parts. I have a few more posts in my head, so hopefully I will share them with you all soon. Sorry I've kind of failed at travel blog to date, but I swear, I will get better!!

Music of the day: The Avalanches - Frontier Psychiatrist

Monday, April 4, 2011

Hold That Thought

I have to say, since my rather downer post about Sydney I've had a pretty amazing time in Australia. Of course, I've done nothing of my previously planned out itinerary (which included, but was not limited to, the Whitsundays, Cairns for the Great Barrier Reef and Ayers Rock) but the ultimate point is I've had a great time doing the random things I've been doing.

Before I go on though, I do want to say that I was a little bit harsh on Sydney. There was a lot of good that it offered, and I did have a reasonably good time and Manly (the area that is 30 minutes away by ferry and is a beach town) was very, very cool. I enjoyed the living heck out of that day, and it was a really relaxing way to spend a day - you know, laying in the sun being a lazy good for nothing.

Not too bad.

I think my biggest problem with Sydney realistically was the fact that I didn't like my hostel at all. Actually, the quality of my hostel often dictates the quality of my days of travel. I can say unequivocally that Base in Sydney was the worst hostel I stayed in so far, and it was just kind of a party house filled with sketchy people. I had a really good night there, mind you, but the rest was kind of crap.

Meanwhile, my time in Noosa has been massively improved (even though there has been bad weather) by the hostel I've stayed in - Noosa Flashpackers. Definitely the best hostel I've stayed in yet, probably the best one I've stayed in ever. Great people, great staff, rooms are comfy and affordable, shuttle service to and from town, free internet/wifi (mother of god!!! I didn't know it was possible!!!), and just lots of fun.

Combine that with going to the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary and hugging a koala (and getting loaned money from the boyfriend of an actor from True Blood), spending the day feeding animals at the Australia Zoo, heading to Fraser Island for some ridiculously beautiful Australian scenery, and a whole lot more, and my stretch in Australia has vastly improved.

The current downer is it has been on full out torrential downpour often here, and my plan to go to the Whitsundays (a beauitful island area - google it) has been killed because of that (because what is the point of hanging out on a sailboat for two days in gnarly rain?), but it's okay. I adapted and am now headed to Melbourne for a few days to hopefully get a press pass to go to the Supanova Pop Culture Expo and if I'm really lucky, I'll be seeing Paul with Simon Pegg and Nick Frost in attendance and maybe, JUST MAYBE, even interviewing them.

We'll see though.

Music of the day: ZOOMIE ZOOMIE ZOO EHHH! (the chant a slew of people were yelling while playing a drinking game - it got caught in my head like a pop song)